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Simple Contemporary Black Nightstand Plans

Minggu, 15 Mei 2016

Free DIY plans to build your own sleek, black, contemporary nightstand with three drawers to help keep your bedside clutter at bay. Features big, recessed, stainless steel lift handles for drawer pulls.
Dimensions: 20 1/2"W x 24"H x 17"D

What Youll Need

Materials

  • (2) 3/4" Plywood 2 x 4 (Carcass)
  • (1) 1/2" Plywood 2 x 4 (Drawer Boxes)
  • (1) 1/4" Plywood 2 x 4 (Drawer Bottoms)
  • (1) 2x2 Board
  • (1) 1x2 6 Board
  • (1) 1x3 8 Board
  • (1) 1x8 6 Board (Drawer Fronts)
  • (15) 3/4" Veneer Edgebanding
  • (1) 18 1/2" x 22 1/4" Back (3/4" Ply)
  • (1) 14 1/2" x 18 1/2" Bottom (3/4" Ply)
  • (1) 12" x 15 1/2" Top (3/4" Ply)
  • (4) 18 1/2" x 4" Stretchers (3/4" Ply)
  • (6) 4 1/2" x 17 5/8" Drawer Box Front/Back (1/2" Ply)
  • (6) 4 1/2" x 12" Drawer Box Sides (1/2" Ply)
  • (3) 12 3/8" x 17" Drawer Bottoms (1/4" Ply)
  • (4) 1" Feet (2x2)
  • (2) 17" Base Front/Back * (1x2)
  • (2) 13" Base Sides (1x2)
  • (2) 20 1/2" Top Edge Front/Back (1x3)
  • (2) 17" Top Edge Sides (1x3)
* Some drawer slides may require a different size drawer box. Check the specs for your slides to determine the width of the drawer box.

Cut Plan

Plywood

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The plan calls for using 2 x 4 (quarter) sheets of plywood. If you plan on making 2 nightstands you can save a little bit of money by buying 1 full sheet of the 3/4" plywood. If you dont have an easy way to transport such a large sheet you might still want to go with 2 x 4 sheets because theyre easier to transport. Home Depot has a few different species of 2 x 4 PureBond hardwood veneered plywood available on their website which are eligible for free shipping. Takes all the hassle out of buying plywood. Click the image on the right to explore their options in their lumber department. The PureBond plywood is made by Columbia Forest Products using Soy Based adhesives and is formaldehyde free.
Note on Edgebanding: Depending on the thickness of the edgebanding you use, you may need to cut some of the pieces a little smaller to accommodate. The kraft paper backed Edgemate edgebanding

3/4" Plywood

Whether youre painting or staining your nightstand some of the grain texture will still show through so its important to get plywood that has a nice grain structure such as red oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc.

1/2" Plywood

A good choice for the drawer boxes is 1/2" maple plywood. HomeDepot.com offers PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple PlywoodIf you dont have a table saw or router: it might be easier to make the rabbet cuts (discussed bellow in more detail) before you cut out the drawer box sides using a guide and a circular saw. That way the rabbets will line up perfectly on  at least 3 of the sides.

1/4" Plywood

The 1/4" Plywood is used for the drawer bottoms. Any 1/4" plywood (not MDF) will do such as PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood

Boards

All of the boards below should be of a wood that matches the species of the plywood youre using for the nightstand carcass. This is especially true if youre planing on staining the nightstand. Its a little less important if youre going to paint the cabinet, which is recommended for getting an even black finish, but still best to get the same species. 

2x2

You only need about 4" but get at least 12" so you have something to hold onto while making the cuts.  Actual dimensions will be 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". Board should be S4S (surfaced 4 sides). These will make up the legs of the nightstand. Use a stop-block on your miter saw to ensure all pieces are the same height. If youd like to increase the size of your nightstand you can make these legs longer.

1x2

Actual dimensions are 3/4" x 1 1/2". This will be the apron around the base of the nightstand, between the legs.

1x3

These pieces will form the edge around the nightstand top to give it a nicer look. Actual dimensions are 3/4" x 2.5".

1x8

The 1x8s make up the drawer fronts. An appearance grade S4S board in a species that matches your 3/4" plywood. Actual dimensions will be 3/4" x 7.25".

Step 1

Begin by cutting out the 3/4" Plywood pieces for the Sides, Back, Bottom and Stretchers of the nightstand. The cut plan assumes the direction of the grain is running along the long end of the plywood boards. The plan calls for the grain on the sides to run up/down. The grain direction for the back and bottom arent as important since they wont be seen. If the grain on your plywood runs in a different direction or youd like to have the grain running in a different direction on your nightstand, make the appropriate changes to your cut plan.
It is important that the bottom piece is 3/4" shorter than the width of the sides (before applying edgebanding) so that the drawer fronts fit flush.

Step 2

Drill all pocket holes as shown and attach the veneer edgebanding to the front of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom piece to the back as shown using wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse thread pan head screws.

Step 3

Drill 1 or 2 pocket holes on the inside top middle of each side panel to attach the top later. Apply edgebanding to the front and back of the side pieces. Then screw the sides to the bottom and back using wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc head pocket hole screws in the holes previously drilled on the back and bottom.

Step 4

The 4 stretchers should be the same width as the back and bottom pieces to hold the cabinet carcass square.  Apply edgebanding to the front of 3 of the 4 stretchers that will be installed in the front of the nightstand. Recheck for square and attach the stretchers as shown using 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc screws and wood glue.

Step 5

Temporarily attach the cabinet side half of the drawer glides to the cabinet following the specifications for the slides you purchased. You will need to remove and replace them when painting the cabinet but its much easier to mark and align them before the top goes on.

Step 6

Cut and assemble the pieces for the top of the nightstand making sure its square. The mitered 1x3s are cut to 2 different lengths. The top should be 1/2" wider and 1" deeper than the nightstand carcass. Use wood glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Hint: Its best to cut the mitered boards after you cut the plywood and cut them a little longer than necessary. Cut them back after dry fitting them around the plywood top. Its important that the 2 pairs of boards are the same length to get a tight mitered corners. Cut one board, then cut just one side of the next board and stack the two together on top of your miter saw and use the first piece to help guide the cut.
Align the top with the nightstand. It should be flush with the back, overhang 1/4" on each side and 1" at the front. Secure the top with wood glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws from the sides of the cabinet and 1-1/4"  countersunk wood screws from the stretchers up into the top.
The Bosch Clic-Change 7-Piece Phillips Bit and Countersinking Set

Step 8

Before cutting the pieces for the drawer boxes, measure the actual width or the nightstand opening and the actual width of your 1/2" plywood. The drawer slides need to be aligned well and the cabinet square for them to operate effectively. Make any corrections necessary when building your drawer boxes.
You will need to cut a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet 1/2" up from the bottom of all the drawer box sides. If you have a router with a guide or router table or a table saw this is very easy but you can also cut the rabbet out with a circular saw set at only 1/4" deep and a cutting guide.. You might need to make 2 passes. Cut a test rabbit in some scrap wood to make sure youre not cutting too deep and make sure the 1/4" plywood edge will fit in the groove.
When using a circular saw I find it best to cut rabbets first, then cut out the 4.5" strips across the entire length of the plywood. Finally I trim the long strips to the right width using a miter saw.
Dry fit the drawer boxes to make sure they fit together right and square. Double check the measurements to make sure it will leave the required space on each side of for the drawer slides (usually 1/2").
Once youre ready, drill 4 pocket holes on the front and back pieces (opposite the side with the rabbet). Dont forge to adjust your Kreg Jig and drill bit for the 1/2" material. Glue and screw 3 of the sides using 1" coarse threaded screws. Slide the 1/4" drawer bottom into the groove but do not glue it. If the 1/4" plywood is slightly bowed (which happens frequently with this thin plywood) try to flatten it out and slide it in with the crown side up. Finally glue and screw the 4th piece to complete the drawer.
If you have a router give the top edges of the drawer a slight round over, otherwise use a file or sander to knock down the edges of the plywood a bit. Or you can cover them with 1/2" maple edgebanding.

Step 9

Attach the other halves of the drawer glides to the drawer boxes according to the drawer glide specs and make sure they work properly.

Step 10

Measure and cut the 1 x 8 board (should be 3/4" x 7 1/4" actual dimensions) for your drawer fronts. Cut them 1/4" shorter than the actual width of your cabinet opening so that there is a 1/8" gap between the sides of the cabinet and the drawer front on each side. Use shims to position the drawer fronts to make sure everything looks fine before continuing. 

Step 11

Step 12

Use double sided tape on the drawer fronts. Starting with the bottom drawer place the drawer front on the drawer box where youd like it, using shims to get the spacing correct, then press it against the tape to temporarily hold it in place. Repeat for the remaining drawers. Carefully slide the shims between the top and middle drawer out and slide out the top drawer. Drive 4 1" round head wood screws from the inside of the drawer box into the back of the drawer front at the corners to secure it in place. Repeat for the remaining drawer fronts.

Finishing

You can leave the drawer boxes unfinished but 2 coats of a water based finish such as Minwax Water-Based Wipe-On Poly Read More..
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Black Ash bowl

Kamis, 12 Mei 2016

Hi Everyone,
Well, I began work on a black ash and Brazilian cherry bowl today. Its apart of the same order for the walnut bowl and what a difference this is. This was one lovely piece of wood and its turning out really nicely:
This is sooo much easier to deal with than walnut. Ash is a lovely wood and white ash in particular can really be a joy to work with. Im surprised it isnt used more in furniture and kitchenware as it has great workability and finishing qualities to it. This bowl needs to be flipped over now and hollowed out and Ill be getting to that as the week goes by.
I have another bowl like this to make and then Im going to be working on two large and deep salad bowls: one in white ash with a cherry rim and the other will be solid cherry. And as always, Ill have pictures of the process for both.
VW
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RICH ESPRESSO FINISH black and white paris dresser

Senin, 02 Mei 2016

 
Richer than black, warmer than ebony, its ESPRESSO!
and Im not talking about coffee ladies.
 
 
I painted the top of this Paris rue dresser with one coat of ASCP Graphite over a medium colored
wood finish. Graphite is a dark charcoal color but is too flat on its own.
 
 
Once the paint dried I applied a liberal layer or 2 of ASCP dark wax.
 
 
Above you can see the upper edge has dark wax on it and the lower edges is just raw graphite paint.
I took a dozen photos to show you this and its still iffy whether you can see the difference perfectly.
 
 
The dark wax takes a long time to dry if you want it to be rich and heavy. I let it dry for several days,
 buffing occasionally then adding a coat of clear wax to give it a nice shine.
 
These handles are done the same way as the Etsy hardware.
 
I added some well placed graphics to the drawers.
*Well placed* is an interesting term considering I tried several different ideas,
in several different locations, sanding away the mistakes in between attempts.
 
These graphics were drawn and filled in with black paint pens. 
 
 
 
Read More..
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Black ash plate continued

Jumat, 15 April 2016

Good Morning All,
Well, I took the plate downstairs this morning and cut it a little deeper than it was in my last posting and I think it looks and feels much better. Here it is after its been cut down and sanded:
Now for the finish: I make a lot of kitchenware for food preparation and those items always get a food safe varnish or mineral oil and beeswax but for other items, like this plate which is not going to be used for food preparation, I like to use Danish oil. This oil really brings out the grain patterns in wood so a dull looking piece of lumber can often times be spectacular when its oiled and Ive gone ahead and applied a preliminary coat of oil to the top of the plate:
This will take approximately 7-10 hours to dry and then Ill flip it over and oil the backside and then let the whole plate dry for 48 hours. This allows the oil to dry completely and harden. Then Ill place it back on the lathe and polish it and give it a very light coat of beeswax and buff it.
Ill post more pictures when its done. This is basically how dishes are made on a lathe. There are other techniques for producing plates and when I come back Ill talk about an English pole turner who produces plates, bowls, and other turned items the way they were produced in the Middle Ages.
Thanks for stopping by,
Vickie
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THE JOYS OF BLACK WAXING boys black bookshelf

 
 
I love to wax black paint!
I love to wax graphite chalk paint!
I really really do!
I hope if I say it enough it might make it true.
 
 
Ive been playing around with these little cabinets for some time.
I wanting to transform them into a cute set of bedside tables. 
 
Ideally some baskets for the openings, second hand of course because that is what I do.
99% of ever bit I use is recycled!
My screws and nails are bought at yard sales and discount stores, buying wood at a
lumber store is out of the question, and if I want baskets for cubbies they must be repurposed.
Guess what .... I didnt find them.
At this point I started to work at combining the two together into some needful thing ...
 
The front legs are harp arms from a vintage mirror, the top is a maple coffee table,
and the lower trim is the apron from the same table.
Just in the nick of time I got a message "I need a bookshelf for my sons room"
With the dimensions I was given this piece would work!
 
 
 
 
This bookshelf would need just a bit more shelving on top so with the kind help
of some pine headboards I was able to crown it off just right.
 
 
Now I had to wax the beast! 
 
 
I hate waxing black paint!
I hate waxing graphite chalk paint!
No matter how often I do it I really dont enjoy it! 
 
 
Read More..
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