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Simple Contemporary Black Nightstand Plans

Minggu, 15 Mei 2016

Free DIY plans to build your own sleek, black, contemporary nightstand with three drawers to help keep your bedside clutter at bay. Features big, recessed, stainless steel lift handles for drawer pulls.
Dimensions: 20 1/2"W x 24"H x 17"D

What Youll Need

Materials

  • (2) 3/4" Plywood 2 x 4 (Carcass)
  • (1) 1/2" Plywood 2 x 4 (Drawer Boxes)
  • (1) 1/4" Plywood 2 x 4 (Drawer Bottoms)
  • (1) 2x2 Board
  • (1) 1x2 6 Board
  • (1) 1x3 8 Board
  • (1) 1x8 6 Board (Drawer Fronts)
  • (15) 3/4" Veneer Edgebanding
  • (1) 18 1/2" x 22 1/4" Back (3/4" Ply)
  • (1) 14 1/2" x 18 1/2" Bottom (3/4" Ply)
  • (1) 12" x 15 1/2" Top (3/4" Ply)
  • (4) 18 1/2" x 4" Stretchers (3/4" Ply)
  • (6) 4 1/2" x 17 5/8" Drawer Box Front/Back (1/2" Ply)
  • (6) 4 1/2" x 12" Drawer Box Sides (1/2" Ply)
  • (3) 12 3/8" x 17" Drawer Bottoms (1/4" Ply)
  • (4) 1" Feet (2x2)
  • (2) 17" Base Front/Back * (1x2)
  • (2) 13" Base Sides (1x2)
  • (2) 20 1/2" Top Edge Front/Back (1x3)
  • (2) 17" Top Edge Sides (1x3)
* Some drawer slides may require a different size drawer box. Check the specs for your slides to determine the width of the drawer box.

Cut Plan

Plywood

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The plan calls for using 2 x 4 (quarter) sheets of plywood. If you plan on making 2 nightstands you can save a little bit of money by buying 1 full sheet of the 3/4" plywood. If you dont have an easy way to transport such a large sheet you might still want to go with 2 x 4 sheets because theyre easier to transport. Home Depot has a few different species of 2 x 4 PureBond hardwood veneered plywood available on their website which are eligible for free shipping. Takes all the hassle out of buying plywood. Click the image on the right to explore their options in their lumber department. The PureBond plywood is made by Columbia Forest Products using Soy Based adhesives and is formaldehyde free.
Note on Edgebanding: Depending on the thickness of the edgebanding you use, you may need to cut some of the pieces a little smaller to accommodate. The kraft paper backed Edgemate edgebanding

3/4" Plywood

Whether youre painting or staining your nightstand some of the grain texture will still show through so its important to get plywood that has a nice grain structure such as red oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc.

1/2" Plywood

A good choice for the drawer boxes is 1/2" maple plywood. HomeDepot.com offers PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple PlywoodIf you dont have a table saw or router: it might be easier to make the rabbet cuts (discussed bellow in more detail) before you cut out the drawer box sides using a guide and a circular saw. That way the rabbets will line up perfectly on  at least 3 of the sides.

1/4" Plywood

The 1/4" Plywood is used for the drawer bottoms. Any 1/4" plywood (not MDF) will do such as PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood

Boards

All of the boards below should be of a wood that matches the species of the plywood youre using for the nightstand carcass. This is especially true if youre planing on staining the nightstand. Its a little less important if youre going to paint the cabinet, which is recommended for getting an even black finish, but still best to get the same species. 

2x2

You only need about 4" but get at least 12" so you have something to hold onto while making the cuts.  Actual dimensions will be 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". Board should be S4S (surfaced 4 sides). These will make up the legs of the nightstand. Use a stop-block on your miter saw to ensure all pieces are the same height. If youd like to increase the size of your nightstand you can make these legs longer.

1x2

Actual dimensions are 3/4" x 1 1/2". This will be the apron around the base of the nightstand, between the legs.

1x3

These pieces will form the edge around the nightstand top to give it a nicer look. Actual dimensions are 3/4" x 2.5".

1x8

The 1x8s make up the drawer fronts. An appearance grade S4S board in a species that matches your 3/4" plywood. Actual dimensions will be 3/4" x 7.25".

Step 1

Begin by cutting out the 3/4" Plywood pieces for the Sides, Back, Bottom and Stretchers of the nightstand. The cut plan assumes the direction of the grain is running along the long end of the plywood boards. The plan calls for the grain on the sides to run up/down. The grain direction for the back and bottom arent as important since they wont be seen. If the grain on your plywood runs in a different direction or youd like to have the grain running in a different direction on your nightstand, make the appropriate changes to your cut plan.
It is important that the bottom piece is 3/4" shorter than the width of the sides (before applying edgebanding) so that the drawer fronts fit flush.

Step 2

Drill all pocket holes as shown and attach the veneer edgebanding to the front of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom piece to the back as shown using wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse thread pan head screws.

Step 3

Drill 1 or 2 pocket holes on the inside top middle of each side panel to attach the top later. Apply edgebanding to the front and back of the side pieces. Then screw the sides to the bottom and back using wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc head pocket hole screws in the holes previously drilled on the back and bottom.

Step 4

The 4 stretchers should be the same width as the back and bottom pieces to hold the cabinet carcass square.  Apply edgebanding to the front of 3 of the 4 stretchers that will be installed in the front of the nightstand. Recheck for square and attach the stretchers as shown using 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc screws and wood glue.

Step 5

Temporarily attach the cabinet side half of the drawer glides to the cabinet following the specifications for the slides you purchased. You will need to remove and replace them when painting the cabinet but its much easier to mark and align them before the top goes on.

Step 6

Cut and assemble the pieces for the top of the nightstand making sure its square. The mitered 1x3s are cut to 2 different lengths. The top should be 1/2" wider and 1" deeper than the nightstand carcass. Use wood glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Hint: Its best to cut the mitered boards after you cut the plywood and cut them a little longer than necessary. Cut them back after dry fitting them around the plywood top. Its important that the 2 pairs of boards are the same length to get a tight mitered corners. Cut one board, then cut just one side of the next board and stack the two together on top of your miter saw and use the first piece to help guide the cut.
Align the top with the nightstand. It should be flush with the back, overhang 1/4" on each side and 1" at the front. Secure the top with wood glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws from the sides of the cabinet and 1-1/4"  countersunk wood screws from the stretchers up into the top.
The Bosch Clic-Change 7-Piece Phillips Bit and Countersinking Set

Step 8

Before cutting the pieces for the drawer boxes, measure the actual width or the nightstand opening and the actual width of your 1/2" plywood. The drawer slides need to be aligned well and the cabinet square for them to operate effectively. Make any corrections necessary when building your drawer boxes.
You will need to cut a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet 1/2" up from the bottom of all the drawer box sides. If you have a router with a guide or router table or a table saw this is very easy but you can also cut the rabbet out with a circular saw set at only 1/4" deep and a cutting guide.. You might need to make 2 passes. Cut a test rabbit in some scrap wood to make sure youre not cutting too deep and make sure the 1/4" plywood edge will fit in the groove.
When using a circular saw I find it best to cut rabbets first, then cut out the 4.5" strips across the entire length of the plywood. Finally I trim the long strips to the right width using a miter saw.
Dry fit the drawer boxes to make sure they fit together right and square. Double check the measurements to make sure it will leave the required space on each side of for the drawer slides (usually 1/2").
Once youre ready, drill 4 pocket holes on the front and back pieces (opposite the side with the rabbet). Dont forge to adjust your Kreg Jig and drill bit for the 1/2" material. Glue and screw 3 of the sides using 1" coarse threaded screws. Slide the 1/4" drawer bottom into the groove but do not glue it. If the 1/4" plywood is slightly bowed (which happens frequently with this thin plywood) try to flatten it out and slide it in with the crown side up. Finally glue and screw the 4th piece to complete the drawer.
If you have a router give the top edges of the drawer a slight round over, otherwise use a file or sander to knock down the edges of the plywood a bit. Or you can cover them with 1/2" maple edgebanding.

Step 9

Attach the other halves of the drawer glides to the drawer boxes according to the drawer glide specs and make sure they work properly.

Step 10

Measure and cut the 1 x 8 board (should be 3/4" x 7 1/4" actual dimensions) for your drawer fronts. Cut them 1/4" shorter than the actual width of your cabinet opening so that there is a 1/8" gap between the sides of the cabinet and the drawer front on each side. Use shims to position the drawer fronts to make sure everything looks fine before continuing. 

Step 11

Step 12

Use double sided tape on the drawer fronts. Starting with the bottom drawer place the drawer front on the drawer box where youd like it, using shims to get the spacing correct, then press it against the tape to temporarily hold it in place. Repeat for the remaining drawers. Carefully slide the shims between the top and middle drawer out and slide out the top drawer. Drive 4 1" round head wood screws from the inside of the drawer box into the back of the drawer front at the corners to secure it in place. Repeat for the remaining drawer fronts.

Finishing

You can leave the drawer boxes unfinished but 2 coats of a water based finish such as Minwax Water-Based Wipe-On Poly Read More..
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DIY Table Top Photo Studio Plans

Jumat, 06 Mei 2016

Every so often I try to get rid of things I dont need any more by selling them on Ebay or Craigslist. Ive found that having good photos helps items sell faster and get better prices so I made this little table top light box to take better product photos. It was made mostly of things I had lying around. Here are plans to build one yourself.

Understanding Shadows

Nothing screams out amateur quality photo more than dark harsh shadows. Lighter, softer shadows make product photos more pleasing and give a more accurate depiction.
There are three main parts of a shadow. The umbra, penumbra and antumbra. The umbra is the darkest part of the shadow where all light is obstructed by the object. The penumbra and antumbra are lighter, softer portions of the shadow where some light gets through.
When you use a small light source, like the itty-bitty flash thats built into your camera, the shadow is mostly umbra.
If your light source is large, in relation to the object youre photographing, the umbra becomes smaller and there is a sizable penumbra.
Please excuse the crude diagrams, it should be clearer once you see the sample photos.
The way the light box works is by making your light source effectively larger so you get softer, more pleasing shadows. In addition, all the light bouncing around helps make the shadows lighter and provides more even illumination.
Heres an example. There are more examples at the end of this post.
DIY Light Box with One light on left
For comparison lets look at the same light under different lighting using the same white poster board background. First using the cameras built-in pop-up flash, then using incandescent room lights (ceiling) after white balancing.
On Camera Flash
If you dont want to make your own there are a number of different Table Top Studios
  • 2 Sheets of 22" x 28" White Poster Board (10 pack about $6.50 from Staples)
  • 10 small Binder Clips
  • Glue Stick or Spray Adhesive
  • Packaging Tape
  • Diffusion material (see steps for details)

    • Tools

    • Utility Knife
    • Scissors
    • Straight Edge
    • Pencil
    • Tape Measure

    Cut Plan

    You can use either a thick package type cardboard to make the light box or foam core. To standardize things a bit Im using 22" x 28" of foam board for these plans. I was in the middle of recycling when I made mine and wound up using cardboard.
    My local Staples didnt carry 22x28 foam board except for the tri-fold presentation boards which arent the best choice for this. You might be able to find that size at an art supply store or you can get it online from Amazon.
    Here is how well cut the foam core. If youre using cardboard, cut the relevant shapes out of whatever you have. Sizing isnt all that critical except for the 22" width and the 14" depth. I just eyeballed most of it.

    Step 1: Back and Bottom

    Take one sheet of 22x28" foam core and score it down the middle (14") so that you can bend it at a 90 degree angle. If youre using cardboard cut 2 14" x 22" pieces and tape them together along the 22" side to form an L like shown.

    Step 2: Cut Out Sides

    The sides are 14" x 14 3/16". The 3/16" comes from using 3/16" thick foam core. Ideally the sides would be 14 3/16" x 14 3/16" but its such a small difference its not worth buying another sheet of foam core for.
    After you cut the 2 sides, measure and mark a square about 1-1/2" in from all 4 edges and cut it out with a utility knife. Keep this inner portion to use as a reflector later.

    Step 3: Apply Diffusion Material To Sides

    To make the light effectively larger we need to diffuse it. The standard is to use a white ripstop nylon fabric

    Step 4: Attach Sides and Top Support

    Cut out a 2" or so strip of foam core or cardboard that is 22" long + 2 times the thickness of the foam core (or cardboard). Attach the sides (with the diffusion material on the inside of the box) and the top support as shown using packing tape.

    Step 5: Insert Poster Board

    The main background of this light box is going to be a 22" x 28" sheet of white poster board. Slide it into the box (shiny side up), leaving a soft curve in the corner and attach it to the back and bottom with the binder clips. The binder clips make it easy to change the background if it gets damaged or to change the color.
    The bottom front of the poster board will hang a little outside the box but thats okay.

    Step 6: Attach Top Diffuser

    Cut and attach more of your light diffusing material for the top of your box and attach it with binder clips. I removed the binder clips holding the poster board one by one to attach the top diffuser to the back. Make sure the diffuser passes under the top support, especially if youre using brown cardboard for the frame.
    The diffuser is blue in the illustration for clarity.

    Step 7: Reflectors

    To help bounce more light to the front of the object being photographed were going to make some reflectors out of the left over foam core and the inner sections we cut out of the sides. If youre using cardboard, make sure to cover one side with poster board cut to size. You can also cover the back side in a black material to act as a light block if you wish.
    To keep the reflectors standing up on their own well make 4 feet. Two for each reflector in use.
    Cut out 2" high pieces of foam core from the section shown in the cut plan and make a notch in each to slide the reflector in. The width of the notch will depend on the thickness of the material youre using. I was able to just eyeball these cuts. They dont have to be that precise.
    To use the reflectors, just slide 2 feet on to the bottom to make it stand upright.

    Using Your Light Tent

    Now youll need some lighting to be able to take good photos. This doesnt have to be that complicated as the light box will make most kinds of lights look better.
    You can use 1, 2, 3 or more lights with your light tent. One on one side, one on each side, one or two on the top, one on each side and also one or two on the top. Different configurations will give you different results. Just make sure you keep the light about 8-12" away from the diffuser.
    Play around with adjusting the lights and reflectors to get different effects. Here are some examples.
    Here are some more photos I took of different objects I had lying around after I finished construction of my homemade light tent.
    ?
    Standard Ceiling Light
    ?
    One Light Left
    ?
    One Light Above with Glossy Background
    ?
    One Light Left
    ?
    One Light Left
    ?
    One Light Top
    One Light Left
    Read More..
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