European style frameless upper cabinets are easy to build with the right tools, are affordable and are used for a variety of projects from kitchens, to bathrooms, offices and more. When I first tried to find information on how to build my own cabinets I found it a bit confusing. In case it helps others Im going to go over what Ive learned over the years. In this post youll find information on frameless upper cabinet construction and instructions on how to build them.These basic wall cabinets have a very clean, contemporary look but frameless cabinets are versatile. By using nicer doors, adding some crown molding and light rail trim you can achieve a more traditional look.
You can save a lot of money if you build your own frameless cabinets. While building frameless cabinets isnt very difficult it is important that the cuts are accurate and the pieces as well as the assembly is square. Before you go crazy in your kitchen with a sledgehammer and order a large pile of plywood Try to build one small cabinet to make sure youre happy with your results.
What Youll Need
Tools
Table saw or circular saw and guide for making accurate and square cuts in plywood.
Combination square
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Kreg Shelf Pin Drilling Jig
Youll need 2 sides, one top, one bottom, one back, one or more shelves and one or more doors.
Unlike my other posts, there is no cut list or cut plan because these are general instructions and the size of the cabinet will vary based on your needs. Instead Ill provide information on how to calculate the dimensions of the components youll need to build your own cabinets to your specifications.
The type of material you choose will depend on where you will be installing the cabinets. In your kitchen youll want to use nicer material than in your garage.
Material for Cabinet Carcasses
The cabinet box is also called the carcass. The thicker the material you use, the stronger the cabinet will be and the longer you can make your cabinets. 3/4" material is recommended but in some situations 5/8" or 1/2" can also work. Some woodworkers use different thicknesses for different parts of the carcass such as 1/4" backs inserted into a groove with 1/2" nailing strips, or 1/2" for the back and sides and 3/4" for the top and bottom. This is mainly done to save money. If youre only building a few cabinets for yourself you can simplify the process and wind up with stronger cabinets if you just use the same thickness material (3/4") for all the components.
Plywood is better than MDF is better than particle board. If youre using plywood its important to note that plywood comes in different grades. One grade for the good side and one grade for the back side. A1 is the best appearance grade of plywood you can get. If you want to save some money you can choose to build the carcasses out of a lower appearance grade plywood such as B2 and use the A1 plywood for exposed ends and doors. Some even like to use melamine coated particle board for the carcasses with better plywood for doors and end panels. If you plan on painting your cabinets the grade of the plywood isnt as important.
For shop cabinets in the basement or garage you might be able to find "shop grade" plywood at your local lumber mill. This plywood would have more defects in the veneer but still have a strong core. Many people even build shop cabinets out of CDX plywood. Its not very pretty but the X in the name indicates the glues used can handle a bit of exposure to weather which could be good in a garage.
If youre going through the trouble of building your own cabinets youre already saving a considerable amount of money and it makes sense to go with plywood in most instances. For the purpose of these instructions Im going to assume the cabinet will be built with 3/4" plywood.
Material for Cabinet Doors
You can make plain slab doors out of the same material you use for your cabinet carcasses. In our case plywood. This will be the cheapest option and the one Ill be using in this guide because there are too many options and methods to construct cabinet doors to discuss here.
If youre not happy with a plain slab cabinet door a number of companies will make custom doors for you in a variety of styles at reasonable costs.
Step 1: Calculate Cabinet Component Dimensions
Before we begin cutting and assembling our cabinet we first need to determine what size cabinet we need. If youve ever gone to a kitchen showroom youve probably noticed that the semi-custom cabinets they offer come in some standard sizes. Since were building our cabinets we can choose any custom dimensions we want to suit our needs. There are some limitations however. The material and thickness chosen will decide how wide a cabinet we can build. In most cases with 3/4" plywood about 42" should be the maximum width but narrower cabinets will have more stability.
Standard upper cabinet depth is 12" (including door) when over a counter. Deeper when over a refrigerator and has more support. The 12" upper cabinet depth leaves a 10-1/2" interior depth. Dinner plates are usually 10" in diameter but can up to 12". If you have larger plates, or want to leave room for larger plates in the future, make your cabinets deeper. In our tutorial well build a frameless upper cabinet that is 18" W x 30" H x 12-1/2" D. This will leave an 11" interior cabinet depth.
Our cabinet will be made up of 6 pieces of plywood. 2 Sides, a top and bottom, a back and a door. All will be cut from 3/4" plywood. To determine the size of each component well use the following formulas. (For consistency the "height" is also the direction of the grain.)
Cabinet Side Dimensions
There are 2 sides and in most case the dimension runs vertically. The height of the side is the same as our desired cabinet height. Because were using overlay* doors the width of the side is our desired cabinet depth minus the thickness of the door. In our case we have:
Side height = 30" (height of cabinet)
Side width = 12-1/2" - 3/4" (depth of cabinet - width of door) = 11-3/4"
Well need 2 11-3/4" x 30" pieces of 3/4" plywood.
(Overlay doors sit in front of the cabinet. Inset doors sit within the cabinet. For inset doors the width of the sides will be the same as the width of the cabinet.
Cabinet Top/Bottom Dimensions
The top and bottom pieces have the same dimensions. The width of the top/bottom is equal to the depth of the cabinet minus the thickness of the door. The height of the top/bottom is the width of the cabinet minus the thickness of each side.
Well need 2 16-1/2" x 11-3/4" pieces of 3/4" plywood.
Cabinet Back Dimensions
The back of our frameless cabinet fits in between both sides and the top and the bottom. To determine the width of the back we need to subtract the thickness of each side piece. To calculate the height we subtract the thickness of the top and bottom pieces.
Back width = 18" (cab width) - 2 x 3/4" (side thickness) = 16-1/2"
Well need 1 28-1/2" x 16-1/2" piece of 3/4" plywood.
Adjustable Shelves Dimensions
Depending on the height and purpose of the wall cabinet you may want to have one or more adjustable shelves. These are peices of 3/4" plywood that rest on shelf pins which are inserted in a series of shelf pin holes inside the cabinet.
The shelf is the width of the inside of the cabinet and extends from the back of the inside to 1/4 inch from the front.
Our cabinet only has one door and we are designing the cabinets to be full-overlay. This means that the door sits in front of the cabinet and covers almost all of the cabinet. In reality the door needs a little bit of space around it to prevent it from rubbing against adjacent doors or walls.
The minimum space with most hinges is 1/16" so we need to subtract 1/8" (2 x 1/8") from each dimension. That will also give us a nice 1/8" spacing between doors from other cabinets too.
Door height = 30" (cab height) - 1/8" = 29-7/8"
Door width = 18" (cab width) - 1/8" = 17-7/8"
If we were building a wider cabinet that required 2 doors we would still subtract 1/8" for the height but the width of each door would be (CabHeight - 1/4")/2. There would be a 1/8" space between the two doors and 1/16" space around the perimeter.
Now that we know what size pieces of plywood we need we can begin assembly.
Step 2: Assemble Sides, Top and Bottom
Should you use glue? Pocket hole joinery is pretty strong but glueing the joints in addition to screwing will give you a stronger more rigid cabinet. If you do decide to use glue, first assemble the cabinet without glue to make sure everything fits and lines up well. Then disassemble and reassemble with glue.
Edgebanding: Apply edgebanding to the edge of each of the 4 pieces that will be on the front of the cabinet.
Start by drilling pocket holes in the Top and Bottom pieces as shown and attach the Top to one of the side pieces.
Now attach the bottom to the side. Make sure the pocket holes are on the outside of the cabinet.
Attach the last remaining side, making sure everything is aligned properly and square.
Step 3: Cabinet Back
Double check to make sure the back of the cabinet is square and make sure it fits inside the back of the cabinet. If not, make adjustments to the back.
If everything fits together properly, is the right size and is square, disassemble the cabinet and repeat Step 2 above, this time with glue before inserting the back.
Drill pocket hole screws around the perimeter of the back and attach it to the rest of the cabinet as shown using glue.
Because were using pocket screws weve built this entire cabinet without a single clamp. Normally a lot of long, expensive bar clamps are used when building cabinets or other furniture to keep the cabinet in place while the glue dries. One of the benefits of using pocket hole joinery is the screws act like clamps to hold everything together while the glue dries.
Step 4: Drill Shelf Pin Holes
Remove the fences from your Kreg Shelf Pin Jig and place it at the bottom of the cabinet as shown. The short side should be flush with the front of the cabinet. This will position the holes 37mm away from the front.
Use the second and third holes from the bottom to drill pilot holes for the hinge mounting plate.
Slide the shelf pin jig up to the top of the cabinet, keeping it flush with the front of the cabinet and drill holes for the top hinge mounting plate in the 2nd and 3rd holes from the top as shown.
Now place the indexing pin in the bottom hole of the jig, slide the jig down to insert the indexing pin in the 1st Shelf Pin Hole drilled previously and continue your way up the side of the cabinet drilling shelf pin holes. Stop before you get to the pilot holes for the top hinge mounting plate.
Flip the shelf pin jig around and place it in the back corner of the cabinet so the short end of the jig is closest to the back as shown. Drill the 1st shelf pin hole in the last hole from the bottom. (We dont need pilot holes for the hinge in the back.)Then continue drilling the remaining shelf pin holes along the back using the indexing pin.
Repeat this step on the other side of the cabinet.
Step 5: Mark Hinge Bore Locations
On the back, hinge side of the door, mark 2 lines 3-3/16" from the top and bottom of the door. This is the center-line for the hinge bore.
Follow the instructions that came with your hinge boring jig (such as the Rockler Jig It Concealed Hinge Jig) to drill the 35mm bores for the cup end of the hinge.
Finally attach and adjust your hinges so the door has an even overlay all the way around the cabinet.
Insert some shelf pins, and your shelf and the cabinet is done. Paint and prime, or stain and finish.
I definately needed a lumber rack in my new small shop so I got to looking around the internet at other peoples ideas and builds and most of them seemed pretty complicated or they protruded out from the wall to much for my small shop. I came up with a simple but strong design that doesnt force you to sacrifice space nor does it take alot of tools, materials, or complicated jointery to build. In my small shop I am trying to put alot of things on wheels and this lumber rack is not built all the way to the floor so that I can roll tools underneathe it. So take some time to watch this video and build yourself a great lumber rack.
Everything you need to know to build drawer boxes for your woodworking projects in this drawer building tutorial.
Drawer box construction can seem daunting but there are only a few simple measurements you need to take to get the right drawer box dimensions. Using pocket holes joinery, plywood and the right hardware makes building drawer boxes easy. When I first tried to learn how to build drawers for one of my projects I had a difficult time finding all the information I needed. After researching the topic and now having had some experience I thought it would be nice to outline everything youll need to know in one place.
What Youll Need
Materials
1/2" or 5/8" plywood for sides
1/4" plywood or tempered hardwood for bottoms
(8) Pocket Hole Screws per box
Tools
Table saw or circular saw with guide to cut plywood
Router, table saw or circular saw with guide to cut dados
Miter box, power miter saw or table saw to cut to length
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Drill
Tape measure
Straight edge
Step 1: Drawer Box Construction Overview
Before we get into the details lets take a look at a typical drawer box construction. There are many different ways to build drawer boxes, some require special tools and skill while others are are very simple but not very strong or attractive. I think that using pocket hole joinery for drawers achieves a great balance between strength, appearance, cost and ease to build. That is the method Ill be describing. Below is an image of an assembled drawer box minus the drawer slide hardware.
Using a separate drawer box and drawer front makes it easier to construct the drawer and provides more flexibility when aligning the drawer front on the cabinet.
The drawer consists of 6 main components. The drawer box sides, front and back, the drawer box bottom, the exposed drawer front and the drawer pull. 2 wood screws are used to secure the drawer front to the drawer box, 2 machine screws hold the drawer pull in place. Not visible are 8 pocket holes and screws that attach the back and front to the sides. The bottom sits in a dado (groove) cut into the sides, front and back.
Here is an exploded view of the drawer to give you a better sense of how it is constructed.
Step 2: Choosing Wood For Your Drawer Box
Before anything else, we need to determine the type of wood well use for the drawer sides and bottoms.
For the drawer sides your options in order of best to worst are: solid wood boards, veneered hardwood plywood, MDF and melamine coated particle board. Because drawers tend to get abused a bit I prefer to use plywood for drawer construction as its more durable than MDF or particleboard. Solid wood boards are nice but usually overkill and much more expensive. I like PureBond 1/2" Maple PlywoodFor the drawer bottoms solid wood boards havent been commonly used for many years for most drawer construction because of cost. 1/4" thick plywood is good enough for most drawers. PureBond 1/4" Maple Plywood
Standard epoxy coated drawer slides (like the Blum 230M Epoxy Coated 3/4 Extension Self Closing SlidesTo determine the outside dimension of the drawer box take the inside opening measurement and subtract 2 times the side clearance. In our example the opening width is 12", 2 times 1/2" equals 1" so our final outside drawer width will be 12" - 1/2" - 1/2" or 11". Some people like to also remove an additional 1/16" from the outside width because the drawer slides do have some tolerance and its easier to shim the slide if necessary than to remove material but I do not do that. The reason is that plywood tends to be a little bit thinner than advertised and the way I measure and build my drawer boxes already makes them come out a little bit narrower than the actual measurements. Ill explain it more further down.
Step 4: Drawer Box Height
There are two situations you might run into when trying to determine the height for your drawer boxes. One is where there is a constrained height for the opening where the drawer will be installed such as the top drawer of a european style cabinet or drawers installed into face-frame cabinets.
Constrained Height
When the height of the drawer opening is constrained it is important to measure the actual opening dimensions. I do this after the cabinet carcass has been assembled and finished. I also measure both sides and in the case of any slight discrepancy I use the smallest measurement. Next it is a matter of allowing for proper top and bottom clearance as detailed in the specifications for the drawer slide.
Standard epoxy coated slides need a 1/4" bottom clearance and some top clearance to allow them to be more easily removed. I subtract 1" from the opening height to allow for the 1/4" bottom clearance and 3/4" top clearance.
In our example the opening is 5-1/2" so our drawer box height will be 5-1/2" minus 1/4" bottom clearance minus 3/4" top clearance equals 4-1/2" height for the drawer box.
Non Constrained Height
In some cases you may install drawers into a cabinet where there is not a separate opening for each individual drawer, such as the bottom portion of a european style cabinet.
In this situation the drawer front height should already be known and I make the drawer box height 1-1/4" shorter than the drawer front. In the case of a 10" drawer front height, the drawer box height will be 8-3/4".
Step 5: Drawer Box Depth
Determining the appropriate drawer box depth is a little more complicated than determining the other drawer box dimensions. To get the best use out of the drawer the main driver for the depth of the drawer box will be the size of the drawer glides you use. For example, if youre using these Knape & Voigt 22" Economical Full Extension Drawer Slides what size drawer slides to buy will be determined by your cabinets construction and size. First you need to measure the inside depth of your cabinet where youll be installing your drawer. Measure from the back of the cabinet to the front of the cabinet as shown.
If youre cabinets will have overlay drawers, where the drawer front sits in front of the cabinet body as pictured above, take the measured depth of the cabinet and look for a drawer slide that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than that measurement. The size of the drawer slide you selected will determine the length of your outside drawer depth.
If youre cabinet design calls for inset drawers, where the drawer fronts will be installed flush with the front of the cabinet, then you need to account for the thickness of the drawer front. In the above example well have a 3/4" thick inset drawer front installed in a cabinet with a depth of 16". That means well be looking for a drawer slide that is an inch or two less than 15.25" and build our drawer box depth so it matches the size of the drawer slide well select.
Step 6: Length of Drawer Box Sides, Front and Back
Now that weve determined what the outside dimensions of our drawer box should be, well need to figure out the length of each piece that makes up the outside perimeter of the drawer box. In the example weve been using weve determined our drawer box dimensions are 11" wide, 15" deep and 4-1/2" high.
Before we continue lets have another look at an assembled drawer box for reference.
Drawer Box Sides
As you can see from the illustration the length of each drawer box side is simply the overall outside dimension of the drawer box. In our case, 15".
Drawer Box Front and Back
Because the drawer box front and back fit between the sides it needs to be shorter than the outside width of the drawer box. To determine the length of the front and back pieces take the overall outside width of your drawer box and subtract 2 times the thickness of the side pieces. In our case were using 1/2" plywood and our desired outside width is 11" so the length of our front and back pieces will be 10". I mentioned earlier that the side clearance for the epoxy drawer slides are not actually 1/2" but 1/2" + 1/32" (17/32"). I dont account for the extra 1/16" (1/32" for each side) because plywood tends to be thinner than marked by about 1/32". You should verify the thickness of your plywood with something like a Neiko 6-Inch Digital Caliper
Step 6: Layout and Cut Drawer Box Sides, Fronts and Backs
I like to reduce waste when cutting lumber as much as possible which is why I always mock up my cut plan before hand. Buying one less sheet of plywood can be the difference between a DIY project that saves significant money and one that doesnt. I include the cut width (kerf) in the plans as well so I dont wind up with an unexpectedly short piece.
For most projects youll be building multiple drawer boxes so the following cut plan is laid out for 2 of our 11" x 15" x 4-1/2" drawer boxes. It consists of 2 10" backs, 2 10" fronts, and 4 15" sides cut out of a 2 x 4 sheet of 1/2" plywood.
I think the drawer boxes look nicer when the length of the piece follows the grain of the plywood which is why I layout the side pieces along the long end of the plywood. I make my rip cuts first and then trim to length with a power miter saw. I always make sure there are a few inches at the end of each ripped piece in case I need to extend the length of any of the components for some unforseen reason.
Dado
How we plan to cut the dado will determine how we proceed cutting the drawer side components.
If You DO Have A Table Saw Or Router
A table saw is the best tool to use to get accurate, repeatable rip cuts for the drawer side components. You can also use it to cut the 1/4" dado or you can use a router table or router with guide. If you dont have a table saw but you do have a router you can rip the plywood with a circular saw and guide then cut the dado with the router. In either case the procedure is the same.
Rip the long 4-1/2" strips of plywood using either your circular saw and guide or table saw.
Cut the dadoes using either your table saw or router.
When its time to assemble the drawer boxes trim the pieces to the correct length using a miter saw.
If You DONT Have A Table Saw Or Router
If you dont have a table saw or router with a router table or guide dont worry. You can still cut out your drawer box components provided you have a circular saw and circular saw guide. The order of your cuts will be slightly different.
Mark out all your cut lines on the plywood. This includes both edges of the dadoes and dont forget to account for the cut width (kerf) of your saw blade when measuring out multiple rip cuts. Mark the cuts so you know which lines represent the dados and which lines represent the rip cuts. Each cut should have 2 marking lines, one for each side of the cut. Using different colors might help. See picture to right for details.
Set your saw blade to only cut 1/4" deep into the plywood. Test it out on a scrap piece to be sure youre not cutting too deep.
Lay your saw guide along each dado and cut out the dado with your circular saw. Take your time. Depending on the kerf of your saw you may need to do 1 or 2 more passes to get the desired 1/4" width. Its easier to cut all the dadoes before ripping the strips.
Set your saw blade to cut through your plywood and proceed to rip out the strips for your draw sides.
Use a miter saw to cut the components to length when its time to assemble the drawer boxes.
Ive done this before but its very important to lay out each side of the cut accurately and take your time setting up your saw and guide so you dont mess it up.
Step 7: Assemble Drawer Box Sides
With all the drawer box sides cut we can now begin assembling the drawer box.
Start by drilling 4 pocket holes on the front and back pieces using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. The pocket holes should be drilled on the side opposite where the dado is cut. Make sure you dont drill a pocket hole over the dado. For larger drawers you may require additional pocket holes. Pocket holes should be no further than 6-8" apart.
Once the pocket holes are drilled, screw the drawer box together as shown.
Make sure that the drawer box dimensions are correct and that the box is square before proceeding. If not make any necessary adjustments.
Step 8: Cut and Install the Drawer Bottom
With the drawer box assembled we can take final measurements so we cut the drawer bottom precisely.
Measure the inside dimensions of your finished drawer box and add 3/8" to each dimension. This allows a little room inside of the dado for expansion.
In our case our inside dimensions are 10" x 14" so well need to cut a 10-3/8" x 14-3/8" rectangle out of our 1/4" plywood. I like to cut it so the direction of the grain runs from left to right when installed in the drawer but this isnt that important and will cut in either direction if it makes more efficient use of the plywood.
With the drawer bottom cut to size unscrew the pocket holes from the back of the drawer box and carefully slide the drawer bottom into the dadoes on the drawer box sides.
Place the drawer box back in place and make sure everything still fits correctly and the drawer box is square. Screw and glue the drawer box back together and your drawer box is now complete.
Step 9: Finishing
Before going on to finishing, if you have a router you can ease the edges of the top of the drawer box sides with a round over bit or aggressively sand it to get rid of the sharp edges.
Sand the drawer box with 80 grit, then 120 grit sand paper to smooth out any rough spots or tool marks.
Staining drawer boxes usually isnt necessary but a polyurethane coating will help protect the drawer box and keep it clean. Avoid using oil based sealers on drawer boxes because they can out gas for years and thats not something you want in an enclosed space like a drawer. For drawer boxes I like to use Minwax Water-Based PolycrylicRead More..
DraftThis chair is a fairly simple build, although it does take a fair amount of time to cut the parts and drill the holes in all of them, but after thats done its pretty simple. The design sparked my interest and I figured I would make one or two of them, Im glad I did, they turned out great! IMG of Chair There are plans for this chair in a few places online, some will cost you some will be free but are difficult to understand or navigate through due to ads and whatnot. I hope to provide you with a straight forward and easy to follow how to guide! Have a look at my short video to get the what all the project entails and understand how everything works. You will find the details and dimensions of the pieces below the video.
You can save a lot of money if you build your own frameless cabinets. While building frameless cabinets isnt very difficult it is important that the cuts are accurate and the pieces as well as the assembly is square. Before you go crazy in your kitchen with a sledgehammer and order a large pile of plywood Try to build one small cabinet to make sure youre happy with your results.
To determine the outside dimension of the drawer box take the inside opening measurement and subtract 2 times the side clearance.
what size drawer slides to buy will be determined by your cabinets construction and size.
If youre cabinets will have overlay drawers, where the drawer front sits in front of the cabinet body as pictured above, take the measured depth of the cabinet and look for a drawer slide that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than that measurement. The size of the drawer slide you selected will determine the length of your outside drawer depth.
If youre cabinet design calls for inset drawers, where the drawer fronts will be installed flush with the front of the cabinet, then you need to account for the thickness of the drawer front. In the above example well have a 3/4" thick inset drawer front installed in a cabinet with a depth of 16". That means well be looking for a drawer slide that is an inch or two less than 15.25" and build our drawer box depth so it matches the size of the drawer slide well select.
