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Tampilkan postingan dengan label saw. Tampilkan semua postingan

You saw it here first

Kamis, 14 April 2016

Hi All,
Well, it was a very long, hot day and to beat all I cleaned out a weeks work of sawdust and wood chips out of my shop so by the time I finished up, I was even dirtier than usual.  But I had another good day in spite of the heat. I made several more knitting notions and a tea box.
I went to a lumber yard yesterday and picked up several things, amongst them a small laminated block out of beech and I made (drum roll here) a darning tulip!! Ive heard of eggs and mushrooms, but tulip has to be a first. Heres a picture:
And I also made a tea box for a young friend who is unemployed and has been for several years now. It is easy to fall between the cracks when youre unemployed and I just want him to know that hes not alone. Here is a photo of the tea box:
Annnndddd, I have some good news: I have a commission from a friend to make a birthday present for his mother. His mom is an artist and she needs a bowl to place her brushes in so Im  making her a calico bowl in the shape of a large tumbler out of assorted hard woods. When its done in a couple of days Ill post some pictures.
Stay cool,
VW
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How To Cut Plywood With A Circular Saw

Senin, 04 April 2016

Getting accurate, straight cuts on full sheets of plywood or MDF can be an expensive proposition. The best way to do it is with a good, heavy table saw. If youre limited on space you can also use a plunge cut track saw like the Dewaltcircular saw guide will help you make accurate rip and cross cuts in full 4 x 8 sheets of plywood.
Since this circular saw cutting jig gets placed up against the cut line, it makes it much faster than other cutting guides that require you to offset the guide some distance from the line. The design also helps prevent splintering and tear out of the thin plywood veneer.

What Youll Need

Materials

  • 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4" tempered hardboard, melamine or plywood (3/8" or 1/2" will also work)
  • Appropriate screws or staples depending on material
  • 1 can of Rust Oleum AS2102 Anti-slip Spray Paint
  • Pencil

Step 1

Measure the distance between the edge of the circular saw base and the circular saw blade on the bottom of your circular saw as shown.
Youll be measuring the longer of the two distances. It should be the side opposite where the arbor nut is.
Write down this measurement as youll need it later.

Step 2

Lay the rigid foam insulation on the floor or on a large worktable. The insulation will serve as your cutting surface so you dont have to rig up a bunch of sacrificial boards.
Mark the factory edge of one of the 8 lengths of the hardboard with some arrows and mark a cut line 3" from that edge. 
Set the depth of cut on the circular saw to just over 1/4", the thickness of the panel and cut along the line. If you dont have a way of making a perfectly straight cut dont worry, well only be using the factory edge.

Step 3

Take the circular saw fence to blade measurement you obtained in Step 1 and add the width of the previous cut (3") plus another 4-5" and mark a straight line that distance from your last cut on the hardboard panel and cut out that section. Again it doesnt have to be perfectly straight.

Step 4

Align the first piece you cut on top of the second piece. Make sure the factor edge (marked by arrows) is facing the right. On the right side of the board make sure there is at least the width of the fence measurement from Step 1 plus 1". You can use a large t-square like a drywall square to help keep the pieces aligned.
Screw or staple the top guide to the base. You can glue it in place but using screws or staples will allow you to reposition the guide if the edge starts getting torn up. Make sure the tips of the screws or staples dont poke through the bottom piece or it could scratch the wood youre trying to cut in the future.

Step 5

Place your guide over Take your circular saw and place the base tightly up against the factory edge of the top guide and carefully cut off the excess from the bottom of the guide.
You now have a circular saw guide that will allow you to rip a full length sheet of plywood. Your cut line will be where you place the edge of the guide. This makes it easy to make accurate and straight rip cuts in plywood with a circular saw.

Step 6

On the back side of the guide that will be in contact with the plywood youre cutting, spray an anti-slip spray such as Rust Oleum AS2102 Anti-slip Spray Paint

Using Your Circular Saw Guide

Using your DIY Circular saw guide is easy. You no longer need to know how far the blade cuts from the face like you do when youre cutting with other straight edges.
Lets assume we want to rip a 12" wide board out of a sheet of plywood. Simply place the plywood on top of the rigid insulation and mark a line 12" from one of the edges of the plywood.
Now place your plywood cutting jig on top of the plywood. The jig should be on the keep side of the line and the edge of the guide should be right on the line as shown. Clamp down the guide at each end to prevent it from slipping. Make sure the clamps wont get in the way of the saw.
Set your circular saw to cut just over the thickness of the plywood youre cutting plus another 1/4" (or the thickness of your guide) and carefully cut using your circular with the base pressed up against the guide.

Preventing Tear Out

Keeping the good side of the plywood face down on the rigid insulation, and keeping the depth of cut just below the plywood will help minimize tear out on the bottom of the plywood.
Since the guide is right up against the cut line, it will help prevent tearout on the "keep" side of the cut. To minimize tearout on the waste side you can first use a utility knife to score along the cut line. Placing blue painters tape along the line also helps.
The most important component to reducing tearout though is a good circular saw blade. The best circular saw blade to use for plywood is the Freud LU79R007 Perma-Shield Coated Ultimate Plywood and Melamine Saw Blade, 5/8-Inch Arbor 7-1/4-Inch Read More..

I ordered a new table saw!

Kamis, 10 Maret 2016

Great news! I have ordered a new table saw and it should be arriving some time tomorrow, I cant wait, its like Christmas.....
I ordered a professional grade cabinet saw, the Grizzly 1023SL. I have been wanting a new table saw for quite some time now but I have been putting it off due to a couple reasons (the leaking roof which isnt perfectly fixed but it is much better than it was, and lack of funds for a new toy), but I decided that it was time to jump.
Deciding what table saw to purchase was definitely a tough decision, but it was fun researching and learning so much about different table saw on the market. When I first looked at table saws I was looking at something in the $600-$900 range. I was liking the contractor saws that I was finding on the Rockler website, they were the only ones that fit in my budget and that was the only place I really knew to look for saws.
So I decided on a saw but then I couldnt decide which fence I wanted with it since there were three different options, the best which was about $300 dollars more than the basic fence. I decided to join a woodworking forum and ask people who actually knew what they were talking about. So that is when I found Lumberjocks.com, and I am glad I did as the community was most helpful.
I asked my question and people started chiming in with suggestions. A few people said that I should skip the contractor saw and just go with a professional grade cabinet saw for $200 more than $900 contractors saw that I was eyeing. The saw that was suggested was the Grizzly 1023SL. After reading countless reviews and asking more and more questions on the forum I realized that all of the experienced folks at Lumberjocks knew what they were talking about so I decided to fork out a bit more money and get the full blown cabinet saw.
I think I will glad that I choose the cabinet saw over the contractor saw because the price wasnt an extreme difference but the quality of the saw should be a big difference. Looks like we will see tomorrow!
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Band saw back online and snow is due this week!

Selasa, 01 Maret 2016

Hi Everyone,
Well, the new blade is back on the bandsaw and weve cleaned and lubricated all the moving parts and that critter is good to go so I cut up a whole pile of lumber that was beginning to stack up.
Ive got several tea boxes in the works right now-all of them are laminated blocks of different types of scrap lumber. They are all about 3 inches deep and six inches in diameter although I may cut them down just a little from those dimensions. All are out of wood that have been kiln dried and the scent in all of them is mostly absent and thats important for a closed container.
Ive brought them all inside to dry as its getting too cold for glue to dry now.
Im going to work on one of them early tomorrow morning and Ill post photos afterwards.
Its supposed to snow this Wednesday!
VW
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My first workbench and cuts with the table saw

Rabu, 24 Februari 2016

With a new table saw I of course wanted to start cutting with it right away, what better way to do that then to make an outfeed table for it? I decided to make a hybrid outfeed table/workbench to save on some room in the shop, although I am not cramped yet I think I will be satisfied with the bench.
Every woodworker wants something different that fits their needs. I knew that I wanted a good outfeed table and I also needed a workbench I started looking online for different ideas. I found a good video done by the Wood Whisperer about an outfeed table built from 3/4" plywood. I really liked the table and I was going to build that at first before I decided to make it a multifunctional table.
I wanted a good heavy table with a vice and maybe some bench dogs, I wanted to be able to clamp things to it, and I wanted it to be stout, sturdy and flat. So I changed the WWs outfeed table design a bit and added a 4" overhang on three sides of the table and about a 9" overhang on one side for a vice. I wanted to table good and heavy so I decided to put two pieces of plywood on the top instead of one and then a piece of hardboard on top of it.
So I went to Lowes and purchased three sheets of 3/4" birch plywood for about $42 a piece, talk about expensive! I brought them to the shop and planned on starting the bench the following day. That evening I was talking with the engineer at my mothers truss manufacturing company and he suggested that I just use some "1 by" pine instead of the expensive plywood for the framing. Also, I had been debating using MDF on the top instead of plywood to save on a few bucks. So this is the way I went, a bench built out of "1 by" pine and MDF.
The difference in price was a pretty good bit. The three pieces of MDF were $78 total compared to the $126 plywood sheets. I had enough pine scrap on hand to build the frame and then some. Overall it was much cheaper and now I have three sheets of nice birch plywood in the shop.
I didnt have much 1x4 pine to use for the framing but I had plenty of 1x10 and 1x12 pine boards that were old and warped to the point that they were unusable as a large piece. When I ripped the pine boards down to size they warp wasnt noticeable. This turned out good because I was forced to rip all the boards down on my new table saw!
Anyways, I cut all the boards for the framing to length before I began assembling the frame, which didnt take long. I got the frame glued, tacked, and screwed together and it is pretty sturdy.
I did get one piece of the MDF top cut but not attached to the frame yet. I was by myself so I was unable to cut it on the tablesaw by myself so I used my Dewalt skill saw and a long metal ruler as a guide. It was the first time I had used a guide to cut sheet goods and it worked surprisingly well.
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