Hi All,
Well, it was a very long, hot day and to beat all I cleaned out a weeks work of sawdust and wood chips out of my shop so by the time I finished up, I was even dirtier than usual. But I had another good day in spite of the heat. I made several more knitting notions and a tea box.
I went to a lumber yard yesterday and picked up several things, amongst them a small laminated block out of beech and I made (drum roll here) a darning tulip!! Ive heard of eggs and mushrooms, but tulip has to be a first. Heres a picture:
And I also made a tea box for a young friend who is unemployed and has been for several years now. It is easy to fall between the cracks when youre unemployed and I just want him to know that hes not alone. Here is a photo of the tea box:
Annnndddd, I have some good news: I have a commission from a friend to make a birthday present for his mother. His mom is an artist and she needs a bowl to place her brushes in so Im making her a calico bowl in the shape of a large tumbler out of assorted hard woods. When its done in a couple of days Ill post some pictures.
Stay cool,
VW
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Getting accurate, straight cuts on full sheets of plywood or MDF can be an expensive proposition. The best way to do it is with a good, heavy table saw. If youre limited on space you can also use a plunge cut track saw like the Dewalt

circular saw guide will help you make accurate rip and cross cuts in full 4 x 8 sheets of plywood.
Since this circular saw cutting jig gets placed up against the cut line, it makes it much faster than other cutting guides that require you to offset the guide some distance from the line. The design also helps prevent splintering and tear out of the thin plywood veneer.
What Youll Need
Materials
- 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4" tempered hardboard, melamine or plywood (3/8" or 1/2" will also work)
- Appropriate screws or staples depending on material
- 1 can of Rust Oleum AS2102 Anti-slip Spray Paint

- Pencil
Step 1
Measure the distance between the edge of the circular saw base and the circular saw blade on the bottom of your circular saw as shown.
Youll be measuring the longer of the two distances. It should be the side opposite where the arbor nut is.
Write down this measurement as youll need it later.
Step 2
Lay the rigid foam insulation on the floor or on a large worktable. The insulation will serve as your cutting surface so you dont have to rig up a bunch of sacrificial boards.
Mark the factory edge of one of the 8 lengths of the hardboard with some arrows and mark a cut line 3" from that edge.
Set the depth of cut on the circular saw to just over 1/4", the thickness of the panel and cut along the line. If you dont have a way of making a perfectly straight cut dont worry, well only be using the factory edge.

Step 3
Take the circular saw fence to blade measurement you obtained in Step 1 and add the width of the previous cut (3") plus another 4-5" and mark a straight line that distance from your last cut on the hardboard panel and cut out that section. Again it doesnt have to be perfectly straight.

Step 4
Align the first piece you cut on top of the second piece. Make sure the factor edge (marked by arrows) is facing the right. On the right side of the board make sure there is at least the width of the fence measurement from Step 1 plus 1". You can use a large t-square like a drywall square to help keep the pieces aligned.
Screw or staple the top guide to the base. You can glue it in place but using screws or staples will allow you to reposition the guide if the edge starts getting torn up. Make sure the tips of the screws or staples dont poke through the bottom piece or it could scratch the wood youre trying to cut in the future.
Place your guide over Take your circular saw and place the base tightly up against the factory edge of the top guide and carefully cut off the excess from the bottom of the guide.