Heres an easy way to cut and install trim around a door that doesnt need a lot of measuring and gets you tight, accurate mitered corners. This is a little different from how most people Ive seen measure and install door casing.
Caulking gunTape measurePencilStep 1: Measure Opening Width
This is the only measurement I take of the door. Measure the width of the top of the opening where the top piece of door trim will be installed.
To this measurement add 3/8". This will leave a slight (3/16") reveal around the door frame. This is the reveal I like to use. If there is a requirement to have a different reveal make the necessary adjustments.
If you want to be more precise you can set a scribe (compass) to 3/16" and draw a line around the door jambs to help line up the pieces.
Step 2: Cut Top Door Casing
Unlike other methods Ive seen, I start with the top piece of trim first. I find this makes it easier to get tight corners and a good fit.
The top section of door casing has a 45 degree cut on each end. The width of the bottom portion is the width we determined in Step 1. In my case I had a 28" opening so I needed to cut at 28-3/8". When cut it will look like this.
Start by trimming one end of the casing stock to give it the appropriate 45 degree angle. You dont need to measure anything for this first cut, just cut near the end of a piece to reduce waste.
Next, measure from the bottom of the 45 degree cut and mark for the length of the top (28-3/8" for me.) This is where it gets a little tricky because you cant just hook the end of your tape measure to the bottom of the miter. You have to hold it in place or what I usually do is use a rigid measure (drywall square or whatever is handy) instead of measuring tape. You also have to be a little more careful when making the cut because the mark is going to be on the outside.
I own a power miter saw but I decided to use my manual miter box which I discussed in my article How To Make Square Cuts In Dimensional Lumber. It takes a little longer to make the cut but the cuts are still accurate and clean up is a lot quicker because I dont have sawdust blowing all over the room. Its faster to make the cuts closer to the work area and all I needed was a small sheet of plastic to catch all the sawdust that falls straight down from the saw. No need to vacuum!
The door casing is positioned with the back down and the thick side of the trim against the fence. I used some small clamps to hold the casing tight in the miter box. One hand operated the saw, the other held the miter box in place. If you have a work table nearby you can clamp the miter box down. Im using some of the Irwin Mini and Micro clamps that came in a set (Irwin Quick-Grip Clamp Set from Home Depot
As youre dry fitting the trim, you might come across some high spots in the drywall edges or compound. Take the time to trim or sand them down to get a good fit with the trim.
Step 3: Side Trim
For the side trim we dont need to take any measurements. Take a long piece of trim and flip it over so the back faces out and the thick side presses up against the top trim with the bottom resting on the floor. Hold it square with the top piece. Using a pencil, mark where it meets the top of the top trim piece.
Transfer your mark to the front and mark the direction of the miter too so you dont make a mistake. Then make the cut.
Test fit the side trim. Now you can start making more precise adjustments to the top and side so the miter is tight and everything is lining up with a good reveal. Once you get it positioned, clamp the side trim in place.
Repeat for the other side.
Step 4: Adjust and Nail Door Casing
With all 3 pieces of door casing cut to size, make final adjustments to get the corners tight and the right reveal around the door frame. Clamp everything down tight and begin nailing.
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