A closed top window cornice increases the energy efficiency of window drapes as well as ads architectural interest to your windows. Building your own window cornice will save you a considerable of money over buying a pre-made cornice. They are relatively easy to make and dont require many tools. Making your own also ensures you get the perfect size without having to hire an expensive carpenter.
How Window Cornices Improve Drapery Insulation
Window drapes improve the insulative value of your windows by creating an additional layer of separation between the warm room air and the colder air near the window. Curtains however are open at the top which lets air pass through that insulated pocket.
During the winter, when you run your heating system, air circulates due to convection. Hot air rises and cold air falls. As the air passes through the top of your drapes it passes in front of the window which cools the air even faster. By preventing the air from passing in front of the window less heat will be lost to the outside and less energy will be required to keep the room warm.
One way to keep the air from passing through the top of the drapes would be to run the drapes from the ceiling down to the floor. If you have very high ceilings, or just dont like the look of floor to ceiling curtains, a closed top window cornice might be a more attractive alternative.
What Youll Need
For this example well be making a window 36" wide cornice with a 34.5" opening. Youll need to size your cornices based on the size of your windows and how you mount your drapes. Youll want to have a couple of inches past your drapery rod on either side to allow space for the drapes to slide without binding against the cornice. Since the curtain rod will be covered by the cornice you can use more affordable curtain rods
- 1 - 1 x 6 x 8 S4S Board (appearance poplar is nice but #2 whitewood is much cheaper and good enough for painting)
- 5 - Crown Molding (fiberboard molding is much cheaper than solid wood moldings and accepts paint well, finger jointed is also an affordable option)
- 5 small beaded molding (such as WM163 11/16 in. x 1-3/8 in. x 8 ft. Primed Finger-Joint Poplar Base Cap Moulding
- 2 corner braces (for mounting to wall ex: Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Zinc Plated Corner Braces)
- 4 drywall screws (for brace to wall)
- 4 3/4" wood screws (for brace to cornice)
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper assorted grits
- Sealing Primer
- Semi-gloss paint (to match other trim)
Tools
Make sure the pocket holes are on the inside of the cornice box.
Step 3: Attach Top
Attach the top using 9 pocket holes and screws as shown below:
The top will fit inside the front and sides.
If youre willing to spend a bit more you can use a piece of clear acrylic sheet cut to 6 1/4" x 36" and screwed down onto the top instead of using wood. This will still give you the enclosed top for energy efficiency but will also allow light to pass through. It creates a nice uplight effect when your drapes are closed during the day.
At this point your basic cornice is done. If youd like you can just paint it as is or cover it with fabric. To give it a little more visual interest well continue with adding trim.
Sand the outside surfaces of the cornice using 120 grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots. Follow up with another sanding using 220 grit sandpaper. Make sure to sand the exposed end grain of the front piece to smooth out any roughness from sawing.
Weve chosen a small decorative base cap molding to apply along the bottom of the cornice. Cut the molding at 45 degree angles in your miter box or power miter saw at the corners. Make sure the back of the molding is pressed up against the back fence of the miter box/saw when cutting.
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