Its not a classic French Armoire but its heavy like one. Im over joyed to start the new year
with something so grand and beautiful but I didnt plan it that way.
I painted it in ASCP Old White then a second layer done in a pale turquoise mixed from ASCP Florence.
The third layer was a wash of ASCP Old White. All the distressing is done with a sponge.
Check out my wet distressing tutorial here:
http://blogspot.ca/2013/02/the-art-of-wet-distressing-tutorial.html
The interior just didnt look right when I opened the pretty doors to see a dark hole so I put her on a
dolly and wheeled her out onto the top step and carefully sprayed her when the sun was out on the
first day of the year.
Here you can see the classic dark finish from the good ole 70s
I really enjoy distressing features like these to show them off.
There is lots of storage inside and extra room on top for baskets or display.
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DIY Folding Sawhorses First Design
Sawhorses, every shop needs them, everyone probably needs another set. I know I do but I wanted something different, something that was easy to store, not to heavy, very sturdy, and all one piece. I have been wanting a set like these for a while and I have looked on the internet for different plans and different designs but I could never find anything I really liked.
(The following is a little story leading up to these sawhorses, feel free to skip down a bit)
Here recently I was working with my cousin who owns a construction company and he has an enclosed trailer that he hauls his tools around in. He also just recently had to let an employee of 6 years go due partly to the economy and partly to performance. One thing about the past employee is keeping things neat and organized (or so my cousin claims, but he doesnt have much room to talk). Anyways, the enclosed trailer is about a 14x8 I would guess and is full of tools, nails, hoses, chords and a bunch of other stuff that has no business being in there or either needs to be thrown out. One thing is a set crappy saw horses that are beyond their prime and are just thrown in on top of everything else. This situation got me thinking I need to give him a set of folding saw horses.
So with the sawhorses on my mind I was watching a video of a fellow woodworkers on Lumberjocks, where he was building a computer table out of plywood which somehow made a light bulb go on in my head.
The problem with alot of lightweight sawhorses is that they wobble, I hate when they wobble. So I thought I could make the legs on each side out of one piece of plywood that way they would not wobble. Then I got on Google Sketchup and came up with these versatile folding sawhorses.
Click on any image to make it larger.I have only built the one so far but its great. It took some time to work a few kinks out but here they are. They arent very heavy and you could easily carry two at one time, I think the leg frames could be made a bit narrower without any problem which would make them even lighter.
One thing I wanted which I have seen on a few other horses is a replaceable top board because they get cut up so easily after a while. You can also have different boards for different applications like a large clamping surface or a panel cutting jig.
They fold up nicely and are only about 4" wide. All you have to do is lift them up and they close right up, no block or pin to remove. They set up easily, just set them on the ground and ease out one leg and thats it.
They arent very complicated, just some plywood, hinges, and some rope.
I hope other people like them as much as I do. If people find it difficult to copy them then I would be happy to redraw them up in Sketchup or even make a video on them. So let me know what you think, feel free to comment!
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(The following is a little story leading up to these sawhorses, feel free to skip down a bit)
Here recently I was working with my cousin who owns a construction company and he has an enclosed trailer that he hauls his tools around in. He also just recently had to let an employee of 6 years go due partly to the economy and partly to performance. One thing about the past employee is keeping things neat and organized (or so my cousin claims, but he doesnt have much room to talk). Anyways, the enclosed trailer is about a 14x8 I would guess and is full of tools, nails, hoses, chords and a bunch of other stuff that has no business being in there or either needs to be thrown out. One thing is a set crappy saw horses that are beyond their prime and are just thrown in on top of everything else. This situation got me thinking I need to give him a set of folding saw horses.
So with the sawhorses on my mind I was watching a video of a fellow woodworkers on Lumberjocks, where he was building a computer table out of plywood which somehow made a light bulb go on in my head.
The problem with alot of lightweight sawhorses is that they wobble, I hate when they wobble. So I thought I could make the legs on each side out of one piece of plywood that way they would not wobble. Then I got on Google Sketchup and came up with these versatile folding sawhorses.
Click on any image to make it larger.I have only built the one so far but its great. It took some time to work a few kinks out but here they are. They arent very heavy and you could easily carry two at one time, I think the leg frames could be made a bit narrower without any problem which would make them even lighter.One thing I wanted which I have seen on a few other horses is a replaceable top board because they get cut up so easily after a while. You can also have different boards for different applications like a large clamping surface or a panel cutting jig.
They fold up nicely and are only about 4" wide. All you have to do is lift them up and they close right up, no block or pin to remove. They set up easily, just set them on the ground and ease out one leg and thats it.They arent very complicated, just some plywood, hinges, and some rope. I hope other people like them as much as I do. If people find it difficult to copy them then I would be happy to redraw them up in Sketchup or even make a video on them. So let me know what you think, feel free to comment!It arrived
Well, I called UPS Freight the next morning and I was notified that the saw should be delivered that day sometime between 2-4pm. So, I wait around another day in anticipation and at 4:30 I receive a phone call from the truck driver asking how much longer I was planning on waiting. I told him that I didnt want to stay past 5 so he came right over before his other stops.
About 15 minutes later I was unloading the saw with the forklift from my mothers truss plant right next door (this saw isnt something you can just lift). With only a few minutes till I had to head home to get ready to go out to dinner with some friends and slid the pallet through the door of my shop and took off the box and there she sat. Luckily the box wasnt in horrible shape so the saw looked pretty much untouched and in great condition. Sadly, I didnt have time to put it together and get it running so I had to leave my new toy until Sunday.
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About 15 minutes later I was unloading the saw with the forklift from my mothers truss plant right next door (this saw isnt something you can just lift). With only a few minutes till I had to head home to get ready to go out to dinner with some friends and slid the pallet through the door of my shop and took off the box and there she sat. Luckily the box wasnt in horrible shape so the saw looked pretty much untouched and in great condition. Sadly, I didnt have time to put it together and get it running so I had to leave my new toy until Sunday.
PAINTING UPHOLSTERY french chair
I did it ....
I painted a whole chair from the frame to the upholstery.
Everybody else is doing it why not me.
Okay seriously I have painted fabric before but just not to this scale.
I also had not found the right piece to do it with.
I purchased the chair at a second hand store and it was solid and the upholstery was all intact,
however the seat fabric had large water marks on it.
So a painting I went ...
I used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Colors,
FRENCH LINEN on the frame and OLD WHITE on the fabric and trim.
The fabric did need 3 coats with a brush because it is porous but its super smooth now like leather.
This fabric was very heavy weight tapestry fabric and took the paint better than any I have worked
with in the past. Velvet sucks the paint in like crazy I dont advise painting it unless you like
spending money. Drop cloth is rough when you paint it but you can sand it smooth.
with in the past. Velvet sucks the paint in like crazy I dont advise painting it unless you like
spending money. Drop cloth is rough when you paint it but you can sand it smooth.
I learned this time around to paint the upholstery first before the frame.
Do as I say not as I do! 
The wood frame has straighter edges than the fabric making it easier to paint the frame last.
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And YES I waxed it once it dried! Same procedure, apply wax, remove excess, then buff.
I am very excited about the possibilities in the future, however I dont think I would
want to paint a piece that you might want to lay on such as a sofa or love seat.
I think this is best saved for occasional chairs and dining chairs.
UPDATE: she was used for several months as a demo for painting fabric then sold.
She is completely washable and if need be re-paintable in the future.
Plywood Open Nightstand
Free woodworking plans to build simple nightstands out of plywood. Features a drawer and open shelving. You can build 2 nightstands out of 1 sheet of 4 x 8 plywood plus 3 quarter sheets for the drawer and back.
This is a relatively easy piece of bedroom furniture you can build with tools most DIYers have. Made from real plywood (since you choose your own wood) and not particle board like most furniture seems to be these days.
Dimensions
Dimensions: 22-1/2"W x 26"H x 19"
What Youll Need
Materials
The following material list will make 2 nightstands.
- (1) 3/4" 4 x 8 sheet of plywood or 4 2 x 8 quarter sheets
- (1) 1/2" 2 x 4 quarter sheet of plywood
- (2) 1/4" 2 x 4 sheets of plywood
- (86) 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc pocket hole screws
- (6) 1-1/4" tapered head wood screws
- (4) 1" round head wood screws
- (2) pairs of drawer slides
- (28) feet of 3/4" veneer edgebanding
- Staples, brads or 3/4" wood screws to attach the back
- Wood glue
- Assorted sandpaper
- Stain/finish or primer paint
Tools
- Drill and assorted bits
- Circular saw with guide, track saw or table saw
- Kreg Jig
- Iron (for edgebanding)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Screwdriver
- Utility knife
- Sanding block or finish sander
- Painting/staining supplies
Make sure you understand how to use all the tools properly and follow all safety precautions.
Cut List
- (4) 25-1/4" x 17-1/4" 3/4" Plywood Sides
- (2) 22-1/2" x 19" 3/4" Plywood Tops
- (2) 20" x 16-1/2" 3/4" Plywood Bottoms
- (2) 20" x 4-1/2" 3/4" Plywood Bases
- (2) 19-3/4" x 6" 3/4" Plywood Drawer Fronts
- (6) 20" x ~4" 3/4" Plywood Stretchers
- (4) 14-3/4" x 5" 1/2" Plywood Drawer Box Sides
- (4) 17-1/2" x 5" 1/2" Plywood Drawer Box Front/Backs
- (2) 25-1/4" x 21-1/2" 1/4" Plywood Backs
- (2) 18" x 14-1/4" 1/4" Plywood Drawer Bottoms
Cut Plan
3/4" Plywood
The main elements of the nightstand are made out of 3/4" plywood. Youll need 2 quarter sheets per nightstand or 1 full sheet to make two nightstands.
Note: Only one dimension given for stretchers. The length is the important measurement for the stretchers. You can make them any width that is easiest for you as long as theyre at least 3" wide. Since I dont have a tablesaw to cut my plywood with, I usually cut the stretchers longer than necessary with my circular saw and guide and cut them to finished length with my miter saw once Im ready to attach them after measuring the working cabinet.
Note: Only one dimension given for stretchers. The length is the important measurement for the stretchers. You can make them any width that is easiest for you as long as theyre at least 3" wide. Since I dont have a tablesaw to cut my plywood with, I usually cut the stretchers longer than necessary with my circular saw and guide and cut them to finished length with my miter saw once Im ready to attach them after measuring the working cabinet.
Full Sheet
Quarter Sheets
The cut plan below is for one nightstand. If youre making two youll need to duplicate the cuts on the following 2 2 x 4 sheets for a total of 4 sheets. The formaldehyde freem PureBond 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Cherry Plywood 1703
1/2" Plywood
Youll need one sheet of 1/2" plywood to make the drawer boxes for both nightstands. A good choice for the drawer boxes is PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood.
1/4" Plywood
Youll need one quarter sheet of 1/4" plywood for the back and drawer bottom. Two if youre making two nightstands. Since part of the back will be seen through the open shelf its important for the 1/4" plywood to match the species of the 3/4" plywood. You can use PureBond 1/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Cherry Plywood.
Step 1
Apply veneer edgebanding to the top of the Base and drill pocket holes as shown. Place the Bottom piece upside down on a flat work surface so you can attach the Base to it. Make sure the Base is also upside down so that the veneered edge is touching the work surface. Use wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse head screws to attach the Bottom to the Base through the pocket holes. Make sure the pieces line up and are square.
Step 2
Apply veneer edgebanding to the front edges of both Side pieces then attach one side at a time to the Base/Bottom piece from the previous step using 1-1/4" screws and glue. The bottom of the Side should be even with the bottom of the Base and the edge with the edgebanding should be on the same side as the base as well. Make sure everything goes together square.
Step 3
Make sure all three stretchers are the correct length to keep the nightstand square. Attach veneer edgebanding to one of the long edges of 2 of the stretchers. Drill 4 pocket holes in each stretcher.
Attach two of the three stretchers. One to the top front (with edgebanding out) and one on the back top (no edgebanding) as shown.
Step 4
Attach the 1/4" plywood Back to the back of the nightstand. You can use staples, 5/8" - 3/4" brads or 3/4" wood screws. If you screw the back on make sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes first to avoid splitting the plywood sides.
Step 5
Cut the Drawer Front so that it fits in between the 2 Sides and the top Stretcher with about a 1/8" gap all around after applying veneer edgebanding along each edge of the Drawer Front. Measure the height of the Drawer Front and add 1/4" to it. Thats the distance you need to screw the remaining Stretcher from the top/front Stretcher. Apply veneer edgebanding to the front of it and drill 4 pocket holes on the side facing the top stretcher.
Step 6
Build the Drawer Boxes. The measurements assume side mounted drawer slides that require a 1/2" space between the drawer box and side of the nightstand. Youll need to cut a 1/4" rabbet on the bottom of all the drawer side pieces to accept the drawer bottom. The easiest way to do this is if you have a router table. If you dont use can use a circular saw set at 1/4" depth.
When youre done with the drawer box, attach the drawer slides to the sides of the cabinet and the drawer box according to the specifications of the slide.
Step 7
Wrap all four edges of the top with veneer edgebanding. Drill pocket holes on the top of the Sides and the back Stretcher to attach the Top to the nightstand from underneath using 1-1/4" pocket screws. Use 1-1/4 wood screws countersunk into the front Stretcher. The back and the sides should have a 1/2" overhang. The front should over hang 1".
Step 8
Insert the drawer box into the drawer slides and place a strip of double sided tape on the front of the drawer box. Position the drawer front on the drawer box leaving an even gap all around. Press the Drawer Front into the tape to temporarily hold it in place. Carefully pull out the drawer by pulling on the drawer box from underneath and use 2 1" round head wood screws to attach the drawer box to the drawer front from inside the drawer box. Once secured drill the holes for your drawer pull and install.
Step 9
Prepare your nightstands for finishing by filling in any holes with wood filler, sanding and then removing all sanding dust. Prime and paint or stain and polyurethane how youd like.
