OIL AND WATER AND PAINT

 

Another beautiful summer weekend gone, but enjoyed immensely.

I finished a few projects and started many more over the last few days.

Summer days are so darn long I can work for hours.

 

 

One of the finished items is this Seaside bookshelf.

I painted it in a beachy aqua then in a vintage white. I also added the sea shell motif to the base.

 

 

George helped me with photos for an upcoming spray tutorial on these next chairs.

He is great at some things but not so great behind the camera so far.

We are going to work together to teach this old dog some new tricks and maybe youll start

to see Georges photography featured here.

 

 

I bought six of these solid maple chairs and painted them aqua.

While painting I started to get some really great cracking in the finish on each of the chairs.

 

 

Crackling usually happens when there is some oil on the surface under the paint.

Not so much the paint wont stick but trace amounts, enough for it to reach with.

In this case most of it is on the upper back rest, front and back.

This oil is probably from hands grabbing and moving the chairs over the course of the last 40 years.

 

 

I do prefer to go over my projects with soapy water before painting but sometimes think ahead about

 the finish you want, the older it is the more likely you can expect some paint reaction on the surface. 

 

 

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MIXING BROWN PAINT PAINTING HARDWARE COLOR LAYERING

 

 

I first showed you this big nine drawer French Provincial dresser at the beginning of the week:

http://blogspot.ca/2013/12/generosity-hard-work-and-provence.html

 

 

Painted in Provence this piece would benefit from having a dark stained top, however as I dont have

 a workshop and the outside weather was not going to allow me to strip it I had to come up with a

different plan for indoors. That plan was a distressed 4 layer paint finish.

 

 

 

I started by painting the top brown.

Annie Sloan does not have a chocolate brown paint currently so I mixed my own.

You can make brown by mixing  blue and orange, or red and green, or yellow and purple.

This is the first step to making brown but to change hue and shades be sure to read this:

http://www.wikihow.com/Mix-Paint-Colors-to-Make-Brown

 

Then I painted the top with AS Old Ochre, a strong crème color.

I waxed the edges on this layer to strengthen the white color for distressing later.

 

The 3rd layer was AS Provence, the same blue I painted the body of the dresser.

This layer was completely waxed and distressed all over.

 

Then came the final layer of the same brown you started with. I used a clear wax for my finished

 look. You could try a dark wax to get more depth but I wanted the blue showing through to hold

the same color as the body.

 

 

When working on something like this be brave and experiment. Try different distressing technics all

 on the same surface. Use different sand paper grits and try sanding before and after waxing. Trying

 new things is what will achieve new results. The top of your projects can always look different than

 the bottom and a nice large flat surface is the best place to practice.

 

The body of this dresser was done much simpler by painting a quick coat of AS Old Ochre,

followed by a good layer of AS Provence. Only clear waxing over the blue.

Below is a close up of some distressing done on the drawers with a light hand and a 220 grit sand

paper. Done right you get to see the light color of the Old Ochre showing through.

All my sanding is done by hand.?

 

The handles I used are original but they were almost a black color. I wanted a warmed up tone so I

lightly sprayed them with a Tremclad gold hammered finish. I didnt want a solid gold either so I

washed them with some acetone so they would have an aged gold feel. Acetone is the same as your

 nail polish remover.

 

 

 

 

*********************************

Stop in to see whats new in shabby chic white hardware available at firstfinds.

 

There are over 1000 pieces of used hardware to choose from

Etsy Shop.

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

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SHABBY CHIC PAINT LAYERING

Sabtu, 19 Maret 2016

 

I took an old record storage table and did a 2 color paint layering to get a fun shabby chic finish.

 

The original table was stained in a dark finish, that is the best possible base for really great looking

distressed pieces. The first color I applied on that was a soft spanish moss green, the second coat was

 a bright white. Both paints were ASCP, but the green was a spur of the moment mix.

 

I find if you start to distress a layer paint project soon after drying the colors seem to come off together and too quickly with too much of the bottom layer not staying put, so I leave the paint to

really set up and dry for a few days so the first layer doesnt sand away as quickly.

 

 

Ive had several ppl who have tried the process talk to me about the same issues,

so it does seem to be a common issue.

Alternatively you could wax the first coat before applying the second color,

this would ensure it would hold better when sanding.

 

  

 

 

 

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HOW TO PAINT BAR STOOLS numbered country white stools

Kamis, 03 Maret 2016

 

 

A good bar stool is hard to find!

These were labeled made in California, anything that was made domestically has my vote.

The steps I took while painting these stools should help convince you to get yours redone.

 

 

Always turn your painting projects upside down before you start, especially chairs.

I use the chain link fence to rest my chairs legs against and a make shift bench below.

If you are using a spray can it takes at least 1 whole can to do one whole chair.

Once all the undersides are coated turn the chair over and finish spraying.

DO NOT HOLD THE NOZZLE DOWN WHEN USING SPRAY CANS,

short bursts offer better control, less waste, and you do not get runs as easily.

 

 

I planned on painting these white and distressing back to the black

but you can stop at this point and have a nice new set of black bar stools.

Let an oil based spray dry for 24 hours before using or painting over.

 

 

I do the same steps with the next coat, turn the chairs upside down, coating all the bottom surfaces.

Then flip them over and finish with your white. I sprayed these chairs with a 50 - 50 mix of ASCP

OLD WHITE and PURE WHITE.

 

 

The seats were upholstered with this waverly numbered print.

 

 

Some upholstery tips can be found here:

http://blogspot.ca/p/how-to_9274.html

 

 

I distressed and waxed the white to show the black and a bit of the wood.

This can be done with fine sand paper (220) or wet distressing.

 

 

This whole process is an excellent method to deal with dining chairs that dont hold ASCP very well,

but for those who want to use it to achieve that silky velvety finish we all love so much.

 

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PAINT BLEEDING midcentury table

Rabu, 10 Februari 2016

 

 

Does everyone remember the little mid century side table I picked up thrifting?

The plan was to spray it with a can of high gloss oil base white paint, however this was

also the perfect opportunity to show you ASCP can create a perfect white finish and teach

you a little trick of mine to deal with paint bleed.

 

 

 

I am referring to the strange browny red marks
that you might encounter while painting vintage furniture.
 

***

Your best defence to any problem is to understand what and why it happens.
 

What it is are OILS (tannins) leaching into your water based product and changing the color.

 

 

Why is because in these areas the wood is exposed and raw letting the oils come out.

 

 

Solution is simple ... you need to block/seal these areas locking in the tannin oils.

 

What I do is wax and repaint.

 

Wax is a good barrier against the oils and Annie Sloan Chalk Paint adheres to wax!

 

Alternatives are oil based paints, primers, and shellacs.

I know many ppl use Zinsser spray shellac, which I have used in the past to seal knots.

Not all woods bleed equally, pine for example generally doesnt give you too much issue

except for the knots. I find oak pretty easy going but mahogany can be just as bad as a red

shirt being thrown into a wash load of white underwear. Everything turns pink!

 

On this side table the original finish had been scratched and was starting to lift and flake off.

Consequently once my first coat of AS Pure White started to dry there were bleed spots all over.

 

*** OH THE HORROR!!! ***

 

 

If you look closely on the above photo you can see the entire face of the

drawers had a streaky bleed. In the upper right hand corner you

can also see a heavier line of bleed where it had been scratched.

 

Here is another area with heavy bleed, the bottom of a leg had

been banged around and the original finish was compromised

exposing the raw wood in tiny spots.

 The same thing will happen if you sand an old finish and expose the raw wood. When I am dealing

with heavy bleed it sometimes takes 2 or 3 applications of wax and paint before it completely

diminishes, but in the case of the drawer faces it was one coat of wax and a second coat of paint.

 

 

NOTE:

 

TREAT THE PROBLEM AREAS ONLY!

and

LET YOUR WAX DRY (60 mins) BEFORE REPAINTING!

no buffing

 

You only have to treat the bleed you do not have to redo, repaint, re wax every inch of your project. 

 

For example I had bleed coming through at the 3 seams where the angled trim attached

to the top but the rest of the surface was fine. I only waxed and repainted the seams.

 

***** 

I hope this information helps you understand the problem so you can also solve it.

 

 

 

 

 

Good Luck with your projects and your bleed!

 

 

 

 

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