Problem was I thought about this too late and there was no way I could get something before the delivery truck came the next morning. :(
Using some scrap I had laying around I came up with a couple of panel carriers that made it much easier to move the drywall the next day. I was going to have some help which is why I made 2 panel carriers but Ill include a modification at the end that could work if you have to move panels by yourself.
The measurements dont have to be exact and you might want to suit them to your height and arm length to make them more comfortable.
The panel carriers consist of a few simple parts.
The top handle is a 4" piece of 2x4 screwed into the upright using 2 pocket hole screws. If you dont have a pocket hole jig you can just use 2 1/2" wood screws from the face of the upright but the pocket screws feel sturdier to me.
An upright 2x4. This is going to be around 34-38" long depending on your height and arm length. The height of the upright should put the top handle around waist high so that you can easily move the panel and lift up the carrier to go up a curb or one or two steps.
At the bottom of the upright attaches a roughly 6" 2x4 with 4 2" wood screws.
To keep the panel from slipping off the carrier a piece of 1/2" (or 3/4" whatever scrap you have) is attached to the front of the bottom 2x4. The top should be about 1.5-2" above the bottom 2x4 so that it forms a lip.
Use 4 1" screws to attach an industrial grade castor to the bottom 2x4 piece. The wheels are optional but if you have a lot of sheet goods to move they make the job easier.
A metal handle like the type used on the bottom of garage doors can be attached to the back of the upright towards the bottom. This handle is used when moving sheet goods up or down stairs. I played mine around 4" from the bottom of the upright but try and figure out the correct placement that would be most comfortable for you.
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This attractive and functional computer desk is built using only one sheet of plywood and 14 cuts which makes it an easy and affordable desk that can be built with a few tools.
You can stain and finish it to reveal the the natural wood grain, paint it any color youd like or mix painting and staining as in the black and maple desk example shown right.
The desk provides ample space for your computer and accessories as well as storage space for books, paper and other items youll want to have handy while working on your computer. All this from just a single sheet of plywood!
Dimensions
48"W x
33 1/2"H x
23 15/16"D
What Youll Need
Materials
- (1) 4 x 8 Sheet of 3/4" Plywood (or 4 sheets of 2 x 4 3/4" Plywood)
- (50) of Preglued Veneer Edgebanding
- (4) T-Nut Cabinet/Furniture Levelers
- (6) 1/2" flat head wood screws
- (6) 1/4" Shelf Pins
- Wood Glue
- 220 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Painting and/or finishing supplies
Tools
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
- Drill
- Circular Saw with Guide, Track Saw or Table Saw for cutting plywood.
- Miter box or power miter saw
- Kreg KHC-90DCC 90-degree Corner Clamp
- (2) 26-1/8" x 23-15/16" Sides (24" x 26-1/4")
- (1) 46-1/2" x 12" Apron (46-1/2" x 12-1/4")
- (2) 46-1/2" x 1-11/16" Front (46-1/2" x 1-1/2")
- (1) 48" x 10" Shelf
- (1) 21-5/8" x 12" Storage Side
- (2) 21-5/8" x 11-7/8" Storage Bottom and Storage Shelf
- (2)10" x 5-7/8" Shelf Sides (10" x 5-15/16")
- (1) 10" x 11-7/8" Paper Tray (11.5" x 10")
- (4) 1-3/8" x 5-7/8" Paper Tray Supports (2 will be 7/8" x 5-7/8")
Cut Plan
You can either cut the desk out of one full 4 x 8 sheet of plywood or 4 2 x 4 quarter sheets of plywood. If youre using quarter sheets Id recommend the formaldehyde free PureBond 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood which can be shipped directly to your home from HomeDepot.com and is eligible for free shipping.
For either full or quarter sheets the cut plans assume a maximum kerf (cut width) of 1/8" so its important to use a thin kerf saw blade. The Freud Ultimate Plywood Saw Blade is a good choice for a thin kerf blade that will minimize tearout and splintering when cutting plywood.
Full Sheet
If using a full sheet of plywood, break down the sheet into three smaller sections by making the 2 cross cuts highlighted in red. First make the 48" cut, followed by the 26-1/8" cut. You can also break down the three sections further. The 48" and 26-1/8" section can be cut exactly in half (23-15/16 accounting for the 1/8" kerf) but the last section is not exactly in half (24")
Quarter Sheet
You save a little bit of money by buying one full sheet but it might be more convenient to purchase 4 quarter sheets instead. The smaller sheets are easier to transport and you can even have them delivered to you for free. If youre picking up the plywood you could have the store make some convenience cuts for you but the quality and accuracy of the cuts will depend greatly on the condition of the blade and how good the person operating the panel saw is at making accurate cuts. These convenience cuts are not guaranteed to be accurate.
General Instructions
Its important to know how to use all your tools and follow all the safety recommendations. This project consists of simple cuts but its important to make sure to measure and cut each piece carefully. Square cuts in the plywood will make for a stronger desk. Its not necessary to glue the desk together as the pocket screws will provide sufficient strength and allow you to disassemble the desk at a later point if necessary. You will need to cut and assemble the desk first, then it is highly recommended to break it down again for finishing.
Step 1
Cut out the Desk Top, Sides, Storage Side, Storage Shelf, Storage Bottom, Apron and Front. Apply veneer edgebanding to all edges of the Desk Top, the 2 long edges of each Side and the front edges of the Storage Shelf, Bottom and Side.
Decide which side youd like the storage to be on, the left or right, then choose that Side piece and the Storage side and drill a series of holes part way into the insides of the plywood for the shelf pins using either a piece of peg board or a shelf pin jig.
Step 2
Arrange the desk top and legs on the floor with the good faces facing out. Drill 5 pocket holes on the inside tops of each leg. The first hole towards the front should be about 1" in while the one towards the back should be about 1/2" in to accommodate the front strip and modesty panel (apron).
Align and secure each leg to the bottom of the desk top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Make sure the sides are attached square to the top. Using the right angle clamp helps a lot.
Step 3
Attach the front strip flush to the front of the desk using 4 pocket holes with 1-1/4" screws on the back to attach to the sides and 3 3/4" corner braces with 1/2" flat head wood screws to attach to the top as shown below.
Step 4
Drill holes for pocket screws in the Storage Side and Apron (modesty panel) as shown. There is also a pocket hole going from the inside of the Storage Side into the Front which is not visible. First attach the Storage Side. Use the Storage Bottom as a guide to determine how far away it needs to be from the Side of the desk. Note that the Storage Side will butt up against the Front piece but will not extend all the way to the back of the desk.
Once youve attached the Storage Side, attach the Apron using pocket screws into the Sides and Top and from the Storage Side into the Apron. The Storage Bottom and Storage Side have the same depth, use the Storage Bottom as a guide on the opposite side of the Storage Side to press the Apron against so you screw it in straight.
Remember, the Apron will not sit flush with the back of the desk. Heres a rear view.
Step 5
Attach the Storage Bottom using 1-1/4" pocket holes as shown. If youre installing the optional leveler feet do so now.
The main part of the desk is now complete.
Step 6
Cut out the components for the Shelf. These include the Shelf, 2 Shelf Sides, Paper Tray and Tray Supports. Apply veneer edging all the way around the Shelf, on 3 edges of the Papery Try (not the edge touching the side), on the 2 short edges of each Side and on the 2 long edges of each of the Tray Supports.
Begin shelf assembly by attaching the two Shelf Sides to the Shelf Top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown.
Step 7
Drill 1 pocket hole in each of the tray supports to attach it to the top. The pocket holes should be on the inside of the support. Use the Paper Tray butted up against the side where youd like to install as a guide to determine how far away the Supports should be. The tray supports should be evenly spaced 1.5" apart with the two end pieces flush with the edges of the Shelf Top.
Step 8
Now attach the paper tray at the midpoint of the sides and supports to split the space evenly using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown. 3 into the Shelf Side and 1 into each Tray Support.
Step 9
To prevent the shelf from sliding around on the desk but still be able to easily remove the shelf at a later point if desired well be using 2 shelf pins to anchor the shelf to the desk.
Begin by placing the shelf on top of the desk and aligning it flush with the sides and the back of the desk top. Using a pencil, mark a vertical like halfway into the shelf side extending down into the side of the desk top as shown.
Use a square to transfer the marking onto the desk top as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Measure in 3/8" on that line and mark it. Using the shelf pin drill bit drill a hole into the top of the desk as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Do this on both ends for a total of 4 holes, 1 in each shelf side bottom, and two on the desk top.
Take your time and be very careful with these measurements so they line up properly. Once you have all 4 holes drilled, fine tune them by slightly deepening or widening the holes in the Shelf Sides. Finally insert a shelf pin in each hole on the Desk Top and slide the Shelf onto them.
Step 10
Your desk is now complete and is ready to be finished with either primer/paint or stain/polyurethane or a combination of the two. It will be easier to finish some sections if you take the desk apart first. Just follow these directions backwards to take everything apart. Then follow the directions on how to put all the pieces together again.
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Free woodworking plans to build simple nightstands out of plywood. Features a drawer and open shelving. You can build 2 nightstands out of 1 sheet of 4 x 8 plywood plus 3 quarter sheets for the drawer and back.
This is a relatively easy piece of bedroom furniture you can build with tools most DIYers have. Made from real plywood (since you choose your own wood) and not particle board like most furniture seems to be these days.
Dimensions
Dimensions: 22-1/2"W x
26"H x
19"What Youll Need
Materials
The following material list will make 2 nightstands.
- (1) 3/4" 4 x 8 sheet of plywood or 4 2 x 8 quarter sheets
- (1) 1/2" 2 x 4 quarter sheet of plywood
- (2) 1/4" 2 x 4 sheets of plywood
- (86) 1-1/4" coarse thread Maxi-Loc pocket hole screws
- (6) 1-1/4" tapered head wood screws
- (4) 1" round head wood screws
- (2) pairs of drawer slides
- (28) feet of 3/4" veneer edgebanding
- Staples, brads or 3/4" wood screws to attach the back
- Wood glue
- Assorted sandpaper
- Stain/finish or primer paint
Tools
- Drill and assorted bits
- Circular saw with guide, track saw or table saw
- Kreg Jig
- Iron (for edgebanding)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Screwdriver
- Utility knife
- Sanding block or finish sander
- Painting/staining supplies
Make sure you understand how to use all the tools properly and follow all safety precautions.
Cut List
- (4) 25-1/4" x 17-1/4" 3/4" Plywood Sides
- (2) 22-1/2" x 19" 3/4" Plywood Tops
- (2) 20" x 16-1/2" 3/4" Plywood Bottoms
- (2) 20" x 4-1/2" 3/4" Plywood Bases
- (2) 19-3/4" x 6" 3/4" Plywood Drawer Fronts
- (6) 20" x ~4" 3/4" Plywood Stretchers
- (4) 14-3/4" x 5" 1/2" Plywood Drawer Box Sides
- (4) 17-1/2" x 5" 1/2" Plywood Drawer Box Front/Backs
- (2) 25-1/4" x 21-1/2" 1/4" Plywood Backs
- (2) 18" x 14-1/4" 1/4" Plywood Drawer Bottoms
Cut Plan
3/4" Plywood
The main elements of the nightstand are made out of 3/4" plywood. Youll need 2 quarter sheets per nightstand or 1 full sheet to make two nightstands.
Note: Only one dimension given for stretchers. The length is the important measurement for the stretchers. You can make them any width that is easiest for you as long as theyre at least 3" wide. Since I dont have a tablesaw to cut my plywood with, I usually cut the stretchers longer than necessary with my circular saw and guide and cut them to finished length with my miter saw once Im ready to attach them after measuring the working cabinet.
Full Sheet
Quarter Sheets
The cut plan below is for one nightstand. If youre making two youll need to duplicate the cuts on the following 2 2 x 4 sheets for a total of 4 sheets. The formaldehyde freem PureBond 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Cherry Plywood 1703
1/2" Plywood
Youll need one sheet of 1/2" plywood to make the drawer boxes for both nightstands. A good choice for the drawer boxes is PureBond 1/2 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood.
1/4" Plywood
Youll need one quarter sheet of 1/4" plywood for the back and drawer bottom. Two if youre making two nightstands. Since part of the back will be seen through the open shelf its important for the 1/4" plywood to match the species of the 3/4" plywood. You can use PureBond 1/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Cherry Plywood.
Step 1
Apply veneer edgebanding to the top of the Base and drill pocket holes as shown. Place the Bottom piece upside down on a flat work surface so you can attach the Base to it. Make sure the Base is also upside down so that the veneered edge is touching the work surface. Use wood glue and 1-1/4" coarse head screws to attach the Bottom to the Base through the pocket holes. Make sure the pieces line up and are square.
Step 2
Apply veneer edgebanding to the front edges of both Side pieces then attach one side at a time to the Base/Bottom piece from the previous step using 1-1/4" screws and glue. The bottom of the Side should be even with the bottom of the Base and the edge with the edgebanding should be on the same side as the base as well. Make sure everything goes together square.
Step 3
Make sure all three stretchers are the correct length to keep the nightstand square. Attach veneer edgebanding to one of the long edges of 2 of the stretchers. Drill 4 pocket holes in each stretcher.
Attach two of the three stretchers. One to the top front (with edgebanding out) and one on the back top (no edgebanding) as shown.
Step 4
Attach the 1/4" plywood Back to the back of the nightstand. You can use staples, 5/8" - 3/4" brads or 3/4" wood screws. If you screw the back on make sure to drill pilot holes and countersink holes first to avoid splitting the plywood sides.
Step 5
Cut the Drawer Front so that it fits in between the 2 Sides and the top Stretcher with about a 1/8" gap all around after applying veneer edgebanding along each edge of the Drawer Front. Measure the height of the Drawer Front and add 1/4" to it. Thats the distance you need to screw the remaining Stretcher from the top/front Stretcher. Apply veneer edgebanding to the front of it and drill 4 pocket holes on the side facing the top stretcher.
Step 6
Build the Drawer Boxes. The measurements assume side mounted drawer slides that require a 1/2" space between the drawer box and side of the nightstand. Youll need to cut a 1/4" rabbet on the bottom of all the drawer side pieces to accept the drawer bottom. The easiest way to do this is if you have a router table. If you dont use can use a circular saw set at 1/4" depth.
When youre done with the drawer box, attach the drawer slides to the sides of the cabinet and the drawer box according to the specifications of the slide.
Step 7
Wrap all four edges of the top with veneer edgebanding. Drill pocket holes on the top of the Sides and the back Stretcher to attach the Top to the nightstand from underneath using 1-1/4" pocket screws. Use 1-1/4 wood screws countersunk into the front Stretcher. The back and the sides should have a 1/2" overhang. The front should over hang 1".
Step 8
Insert the drawer box into the drawer slides and place a strip of double sided tape on the front of the drawer box. Position the drawer front on the drawer box leaving an even gap all around. Press the Drawer Front into the tape to temporarily hold it in place. Carefully pull out the drawer by pulling on the drawer box from underneath and use 2 1" round head wood screws to attach the drawer box to the drawer front from inside the drawer box. Once secured drill the holes for your drawer pull and install.
Step 9
Prepare your nightstands for finishing by filling in any holes with wood filler, sanding and then removing all sanding dust. Prime and paint or stain and polyurethane how youd like.
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circular saw guide will help you make accurate rip and cross cuts in full 4 x 8 sheets of plywood.
